摘要
本文根据1984—1985年对福建海岸15条剖面进行周年观测资料,首次研究了该区岸滩的季节,风暴潮循环等现代岸滩动态过程及其原因。结果表明,福建海滩主要类型有河口型、湾口沙嘴型和开敞高能型等三种;潮滩可分为动态平衡型和淤积型两种,以后者为主,最大淤积速率45cm/a;风暴潮对海滩作用存在着可逆和不可逆过程,单坡式海滩的可逆过程周期约2个月;影响海滩发育的动力是波浪、沿岸流和径流,潮滩则以潮流和人类活动为主。
This study focuses,for the first time,on the dynamic processes of seasonal and surge wave cycles and their causes of modern beach and tidal flat within the intertidal zone,basing on data from 15 profiles along Fujian′s coast is an annual observation in 1984—1985.There are mainly three types of beach in the survey area:river-mouth,open-high energy,and bayment-mouth spit.The dynamic process of beach shows an obviously seasonal cycling,which is characterized by accretion in summer,and erosion in winter The variation forms and influance factors are different in various beaches,Open-high energy beach reaches dynamic equalization in the way of migating of the total profile,in which wave is the most important dynamic factor and residual depodit from nearshore are the major sources.The dynamic processes in river-mouth beach show that erosion and deposition are directly related to river sand transport.The heavy rain and surge wave in storms erode a beach of single-oretation gradient to produce a low washing profile with a cut-down of one meter.The measurements show that the storm eroded profile can be recovered in two months.Though tidal flats are confinded to low energy environment,deposit process on some areas takes place more quickly than beach.Both factors of tidal currents and human activity may be significant in affecting on patterns of dynamic processes.As a result maximum deposition rate on a tidal flat reaches 45 cm/a.
作者
倪孟书
Ni Mengshu(Third Institute of Oceanography,SOA,Xiamen)
出处
《台湾海峡》
CAS
1988年第2期103-111,共9页
Journal of Oceanography In Taiwan Strait
