摘要
以织金、印金等工艺形成呈棋盘格排列的“方搭子”,是元代纺织品的代表性纹样之一,目前学界对该类纹样的专题研究尚不多见。本文基于实物考察,结合相关图像与文献资料,分析该类纹样艺术形式与演变规律的同时,考证其形成原因。旨在以此类纹样为例,深入探讨外域及本土文化对元代纺织品纹样形成的影响。研究表明,此类纹样的形成主要受三方面因素影响:一是宗教图像的跨媒介传播,二是中西亚及欧洲贵族服饰的沿袭,三是中土吉祥符号的传承。
Forming a Checkerboard-Arranged“Fangdazi”Pattern through techniques such as gold-weaving and gold-stamping,this pattern is one of the representative motifs in Yuan Dynasty textiles.Currently,scholarly research specifically focused on this motif remains relatively scarce.Based on the examination of physical artifacts and incorporating relevant visual and textual sources,this paper analyzes the artistic form and evolutionary patterns of this motif while also investigating its origins.Research indicates that the formation of this type of pattern is primarily linked to three major factors:First,the cross-media dissemination of religious imagery.Second,the inheritance of Central/West Asian and European aristocratic attire.Finally,the continuation of indigenous Chinese auspicious symbols.Themes within the Yuan Dynasty Checkerboard-Arranged“Fangdazi”,inherited the tradition of auspicious patterns from the Song Dynasties.Furthermore,the dimensional specifications of some grid patterns are aligned with numerical concepts symbolizing good fortune within indigenous Chinese philosophy.This paper aims to use such patterns as a case study to analyze how foreign and indigenous cultural factors jointly shaped Yuan textile motifs,revealing their hybrid nature and formation mechanism.
出处
《艺术设计研究》
北大核心
2025年第4期64-71,139,共9页
Art & Design Research
基金
2024年国家社科基金艺术学项目“技术文化观下的宋辽金西夏工艺美术史研究”(项目编号:24BG144)的阶段性成果。
关键词
元代
棋盘格
方搭子
艺术特征
形成原因
The Yuan Dynasty
Chessboard Pattern
Fangdazi
Artistic features
Formation Causes
作者简介
邓莉丽,南京理工大学设计与传媒学院教授,博士。
