摘要
肩襕是一种盛行于元代的肩部带状装饰,起于颈侧,止于接袖。通过整理元代出土服饰信息可知,肩襕常出现于元代男性辫线袍和女性大袖袍之上,是当时服饰和袍料的显著特征之一。本文通过相关文献和出土文物的互证研究,追本溯源,探讨肩襕纹样含义,推测其形成原因等等,揭示在元代社会背景下,肩襕背后蕴含的民族融合与文化交流。
Jianlan is a ribbon-like ornament popular in the Yuan Dynasty,which starts from the side of the human neck and ends where the sleeve begins.Studies of unearthed Yuan Dynasty dresses show that,as a striking feature of dresses and robes of that time,jianlan frequently appears above the braided string robes for males and bell-sleeve robes for females.This paper,through the study of related historical documents and unearthed real objects,traces the origin of this ornament,explores the implied meaning of its designs,postulates the reasons for its emergence,and reveals the national fusion and cultural exchange represented by it in the social background of the Yuan Dynasty.
作者
谢菲
贺阳
Xie Fei;He Yang(Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology)
出处
《湖南省博物馆馆刊》
2019年第1期98-103,共6页
Hunan Provincial Museum
基金
教育部服务国家特殊需求博士人才培养项目“中国传统服饰文化抢救传承与设计创新人才培养”(项目编号:NHFZ20190110)
“北京服装学院高水平教师队伍建设专项资金”(项目编号:BIFTTD201804)
国家社科基金艺术学重大项目“中华民族服饰文化研究”(项目编号:18ZD20)阶段性成果
关键词
元代
肩襕
袖襕
辫线袍
大袖袍
Yuan Dynasty
jianlan
xiulan
braided string robe
bell-sleeve robe
作者简介
谢菲:北京服装学院博士研究生(在读);贺阳:北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆馆长,教授,博士生导师。
