摘要
在食物生产日益工业化和科学化的背景下,中国民众追求天然食物的返璞归真现象的情感动因格外引人注目。“三门青蟹”是国家地理标志保护产品和农产品地理标志品牌,其成长发展历经三个阶段:(1)前产业化时期三门民众赋予青蟹的“自然”禀赋为产业化奠定了不言自明的基础共识;(2)“三门青蟹”的练成,对前产业化阶段青蟹的“自然”品质既是继承也是重建,随着其品牌价值和市场占有率的提升,外地蟹与本地蟹之间、配方饲料和鱼虾饲料之间、肥大与鲜甜之间的张力跃然而出,其“自然”禀赋遭遇危机;(3)返乡大学生超越科学与自然的二元想象,以科学方法调整养殖环境和养殖方式,在一定意义上带动“三门青蟹”走出了“自然”危机。从“三门青蟹”的成长发展史可以看出:中国人迷恋天然食物的根源在于“自然”这一深刻的情感结构。该情感结构由漫长的农耕文明所培植,在人类社会中具有普遍性,又获得道家学说及道教化和医学化的建构和加持,以对“土”的理解为典型,具有中国文明的独特性。现代性远离了自然,凸显了食物风险和人的流动性,激活了此情感结构,引导中国人身处工业文明却试图觅食于农业社会。“愈现代,愈‘自然’”,此之谓也。对生产和消费行为背后的情感结构的具体形态的探究,是探索人的生命意义的情感支撑的一次尝试,以追问将社会学作为“生命的学问”的可能性。
In an era of increasingly industrialized and scientific food production,the emotional appeal of Chinese consumers’pursuit of unprocessed and“back-to-basics”food is particularly noteworthy.This paper examines the development history of Sanmen mud crab(scylla serrata),designated as a national geographical indication(GI)as well as an agricultural GI brand,through three distinct phases.First,in its pre-industrial production period,the“natural”endowment attributed to local crabs by Sanmen people laid an unspoken foundational consensus for its subsequent industrialization.Second,the making of“Sanmen mud crab”brand both inherits and reconstructs the“natural”quality from its pre-industrial phase.However,as its brand value and market share grew,tensions emerged between local and out-of-town crabs,between formula and natural feeding,and the pursuit of size versus freshness/sweetness,putting its“natural”endowment at risk.In the third phase,returning university graduates moved beyond the dualistic imagination of science and nature,employing scientific methods to rebuild aquaculture environments and practices,thereby,to a certain extent,managed to overcome the“natural endowment”crisis.The growth history of the Sanmen mud crab reveals that the Chinese fascination with natural food is rooted in a profound emotional structure connecting to“nature”.This emotional structure,cultivated by a long agricultural civilization,is universal to humanity,yet it is further developed and reinforced by Daoist philosophy,and Daoist and Chinese traditional medicinal practices,as exemplified by the Chineses understanding of“soil”(土),which is unique to Chinese civilisation.Modernity,by distancing itself from nature and highlighting food risks and human mobility,has activated this emotional structure,leading Chinese people,even amidst industrial civilization,to seek sustenance from the agricultural past.This phenomenon is encapsulated by the phrase:“the more modern,the more‘natural’”.Unearthing the specific forms of emotional structures underlying human production and consumption behaviors is an attempt to explore the emotional underpinnings of the meaning of human life,raising the possibility of sociology as a“study of life”.
作者
惠忆晨
李篡
肖瑛
HUI Yichen;LI Cuan;XIAO Ying(Department of Sociology,Tsinghua University;School of Sociology and Political Science,Shanghai University)
出处
《社会》
北大核心
2025年第4期34-70,共37页
Chinese Journal of Sociology
基金
国家社科基金项目(22VRC097)的阶段性成果。
关键词
农产品地理标志
三门青蟹
情感结构
自然情结
生命的学问
agricultural geographical indication
Sanmen mud crab
emotional structure
nature complex
study of life
作者简介
肖瑛,E-mail:ying.xiao@shu.edu.cn。
