摘要
为提高蚕丝织物的功能性和附加值,文章采用抗紫外剂改性天然染料石榴皮色素染色蚕丝织物。通过单因素实验确定改性反应最佳pH值,探讨了改性反应的机理,研究了染浴pH值对织物染色性能及抗紫外性能的影响。结果表明,染浴pH值分别为3.0、4.0、5.0、6.0时,相同pH值染浴中,改性后石榴皮色素染色织物的K/S值高于改性前。染浴pH值分别为3.0、4.0、5.0、6.0、7.0时,改性后石榴皮色素染色织物的抗紫外性能显著提高,相同pH值染浴中UPF比值在1.87~2.57。染浴pH值为3.0时,改性前、后石榴皮色素染色织物的K/S值均较高,耐皂洗色牢度及耐摩擦色牢度达4~5级,UPF值分别为24.54和10.73。
Natural dyes,which have the peculiarity of soft color,low sensitization,zero irritation to the human body,biodegradability,good environmental compatibility,and so on,have aroused people’s attention again.Some natural dyes have such functions as antibacteriality,anti-ultraviolet and anti-oxidation,which can enhance the added value of dyed products.Clothing people wear in summer is thin,which weakens the protection against UV rays.In summer,silk fabrics are very popular.However,due to the lightness and thinness of silk fabrics,their anti-ultraviolet function is weak.The UV-resistant finishing agent can improve the anti-ultraviolet property of silk fabrics.But the finishing agent is easy to be removed from the surface of the silk fabrics,and the anti-ultraviolet function is not durable enough.The pomegranate peel pigment,containing polyphenol substances such as punicalagin and ellagic acid,has antioxidant,antibacterial functions,and anti-ultraviolet properties.The modification reaction of the natural dye of pomegranate peel pigment with water-soluble and reactive UV-absorbent could improve the UV absorption performance.And dyeing and finishing can be carried out simultaneously when silk fabrics are dyed with modified pomegranate peel pigment,which reduces the technology process.Due to the combination of modified pomegranate pigment and fiber with van der Waals force and other forces,the anti-ultraviolet property of the fabrics is longlasting and not easy to elute.UV-Sun Cel Liq(UV-SCL for short)is a reactive and anionic UV absorber based on N,N’-diphenylacetamide(oxaloaniline)group,and it has good water solubility and anti-ultraviolet properties.Under alkaline conditions,UV absorber UV-SCL can dissociate to form the vinyl sulfone group that can react with the phenolic hydroxyl group.The phenolic hydroxyl group of polyphenol molecules in the pomegranate peel pigment can be dissociated under alkaline conditions to produce a hydroxy-oxygen anion.Through nucleophilic addition reaction,UV-SCL is connected with polyphenol molecules in the pomegranate peel pigment by aromatic ether bond to produce the modified pomegranate pigment.The optimum pH value of the modification reaction was determined by a singlefactor condition experiment,and the mechanism of the modification reaction was discussed.In this experiment,the pomegranate peel pigment before and after modification was used to dye silk fabrics,and the effect of the pH value of the dyeing bath on the dyeing behavior and anti-ultraviolet property of dyed silk fabrics were studied.The results showed that the antisymmetric stretching vibration of the C—O()group connected to the benzene ring in the aromatic ether bond appeared at 1275 cm-1 in the FTIR spectra of the modified products at pH values of 8.0,8.5,and 9.0,indicating that the modified pomegranate peel pigment was formed.Considering the stability of pigment,the optimal pH value of the modification reaction is selected as 8.0.The color light of silk fabrics dyed with the pomegranate peel pigment before and after modification is affected by the pH value of the dyeing bath.In an acidic dyeing bath,there are different shades of pale brown,and the color light is weak under neutral and alkaline conditions.When the pH value of the dyeing bath is 3.0,the K/S value of silk fabrics dyed with the pomegranate peel pigment before and after modification is the highest.The color depth of silk fabrics dyed with the modified pomegranate peel pigment in the same pH bath is higher than that of silk fabrics dyed with pomegranate peel pigment when the pH value of the dyeing bath is 3.0,4.0,5.0 and 6.0.When the pH value of the dyeing bath is 3.0,the color fastness to soap washing and friction of silk fabrics dyed with the pomegranate peel pigment before and after modification is relatively high.The color fastness to soap changing of silk fabrics is grade 4-5,and the cotton and silk color fastness to soap washing and dry and wet friction fastness is grade 5.In the dyeing bath with the same pH value,the UV transmittance of silk fabrics dyed with the modified pomegranate peel pigment is lower than that before modification,and the UPF value is higher than that before modification when the pH value of the dyeing bath is 3.0,4.0,5.0,6.0 and 7.0.The ratio of UPF value of silk fabrics dyed with the modified pomegranate peel pigment and the original pomegranate peel pigment ranges from 1.87 to 2.57.When the pH value of the dyeing bath is 3.0,the UPF value of silk fabrics dyed with modified pomegranate peel pigment is the highest,and the UPF value is 24.54.When the pH value of the dyeing bath is 3.0 and 4.0,the UPF value of silk fabrics dyed with pomegranate peel pigment is 10.73 and 10.75,respectively.It is expected that the anti-ultraviolet,antibacterial and antioxidant properties of the dyed silk fabrics can be elevated by dyeing with the modified pomegranate peel pigment,which can be used to promote the function and added value of dyed fabrics.At the same time,dyeing and finishing can be carried out in the same bath and the durability of a function of dyed fabrics can be improved.
作者
姜健
吴晓杰
刘宇
宋娇
路艳华
黄凤远
JIANG Jian;WU Xiaojie;LIU Yu;SONG Jiao;LU Yanhua;HUANG Fengyuan(College of Chemical Engineering and Machinery,Liaodong University,Dandong 118003,China;College of Chemical Engineering,Shenyang University of Chemical Technology,Shenyang 110142,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2023年第10期45-52,共8页
Journal of Silk
基金
国家自然科学基金项目(51873084)
辽宁省教育厅高校基本科研项目(LJKMZ20221754)
辽东学院国家级大学生创新创业训练项目(202211779040)。
关键词
抗紫外剂
石榴皮色素
蚕丝织物
染色性能
抗紫外性能
UV-absorbent
pomegranate peel pigment
mulberry silk fabrics
dyeing behavior
anti-ultraviolet property
作者简介
姜健(1969-),女,副教授,主要从事纺织品生态染整及应用;通信作者:黄凤远,教授,huangfengyuan@hotmail.com。
