摘要
本文以唐代肩部拼接式半臂实物图像为研究对象,从外观形制上分析其特点。同时将该类半臂与公元7—9世纪的吐谷浑国、吐蕃王国和中亚粟特九姓国的图像材料和文献记录进行对比互证,得出其肩部的异色面料拼接是初唐时期吐谷浑族受吐蕃文化及西亚、中亚一带服装肩部镶拼影响,并结合本土与中原文化因素的复合型服装式样。该类半臂服装为人们直观了解吐谷浑服饰面貌提供实例,同时蕴含着7世纪以来中国边疆少数民族地区与西方文化交流交汇的历史,投射出中国唐朝时期服饰文化的民族性和多元性。
Based on the archaeological achievements of Chinese clothing,it is found that the only two existing half sleeve shirts of the Tang Dynasty(618-907 A.D.)in China are very special in the structural segmentation and splicing of their shoulders.However,scholars at home and abroad have little research on this type of half sleeve shirts.Therefore,the analysis of this type of shoulder-spliced half sleeve shirt and sorting out its origin have great significance for improving the ancient Chinese costume culture system and the research on the exchange and mutual learning of Chinese and foreign national costumes.Using the research method of mutual confirmation between images and documents,we compare and analyze the Tang Dynasty spliced half sleeve shirts with Chinese and foreign documents,images,etc.,and draw the following three important conclusions:ⅰ)This kind of half sleeve shirt is Tuyuhun clothing with the aesthetic style of Tubo clothing,which reflects the unique clothing style of the frontier minority areas in the Tang Dynasty of China;ⅱ)According to relevant archaeological images and literature records in Central Asia,West Asia and the Near East,it is found that the use of splicing techniques on the shoulders of clothing was common in Asia and West Asia in ancient times.In consideration of the prosperity of the Silk Road on land since the 7^(th)century and the background of the cultural exchange and integration of various ethnic groups,it is inferred that this type of shoulder-spliced half sleeve shirt is the result of the Tuyuhun(313-663 A.D.)absorption of Han culture,Tubo culture and the clothing characteristics of Central Asia and West Asia.On the one hand,Tuyuhun,as a major branch of the Xianbei nomads in ancient China,was deeply influenced by Han costume art in its exchanges with Han nationality;on the other hand,the prosperity of the Silk Road on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau also promoted the collision and fusion of clothing arts of Tuyuhun Kingdom and Tubo Kingdom with Central Asia and West Asia,thus forming a pattern that is significantly different from Han clothing in the structural splicing design of the shoulders.ⅲ)The nomadic costume aesthetics contained in the shoulder-spliced half sleeve shirts in the Tang Dynasty had a certain influence on the half sleeve costumes in the Yuan Dynasty(1271-1368 A.D.).The article deeply collects,organizes and analyzes the style characteristics and historical origins of the shoulder-spliced half sleeve shirts in the Tang Dynasty.It is of great value to study the national costume art of China’s Tibet region from the 7^(th)to the 9^(th)century,the historical process of cultural exchanges between ancient China’s frontier regions and Central Asia and West Asia,and the construction and development of the Chinese nation’s diverse and integrated clothing system.
作者
刘睿佳
邵新艳
LIU Ruijia;SHAO Xinyan(Costume Arts and Engineering College,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100105,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2022年第11期143-149,共7页
Journal of Silk
关键词
唐代
半臂
服饰形制
肩部拼接
历史渊源
the Tang Dynasty
half sleeve shirt
clothing shape
shoulder stitching
historical origin
作者简介
刘睿佳(1996-),女,硕士研究生,研究方向为服饰文化与设计;通信作者:邵新艳,副教授,fzysxy@bift.edu.cn。
