摘要
明清时期官营丝绸织造具有鲜明的艺术特征与严格的制作工艺要求,一方面代表了特供类真丝织物的高标准精工艺,另一方面体现出鲜明的名类特征与地区制式类型。在面料、形式、典制及尺寸与颜色等多方面都体现出“尊卑有别,贫富各异”的森严等级制度。本文从明清官服的仪典制度与丝绸织造技艺出发,对明清时期丝织机构类型与特点进行归纳总结,并对明清时期丝绸织造的工艺典制进行细化分类,而非再现,相关成果有助于对丝绸历史研究提供资料梳理与案例借鉴。
There are many types of silk fabrics in early China and many manufacturing techniques for these fabrics.As silk fabrics have obvious health care and skin care effects,they have always been widely praised and favored by domestic and foreign markets.During the Ming and Qing Dynasties,official silk manufacturing had distinct artistic features and strict production process requirements.On the one hand,it represents the high standard and fine craftsmanship of special silk fabrics.These silk fabrics all reflect a strict hierarchy of "being superior and inferior,and being rich and poor" in terms of fabrics,forms,codes,size and colors.Therefore,the research on the silk weaving art and production process of official uniforms in the Ming and Qing Dynasties in this paper has great significance and value.This article sorted out the ceremonial system and silk weaving skills of official uniforms,summarized the types and characteristics of silk weaving institutions and made a detailed classification of the silk weaving craftsmanship in the Ming and Qing Dynasties.The study finds that the distinction between the Ming and Qing official uniforms is mainly reflected in the design of clothing colors,fabrics and patterns.The official uniforms of the Ming and Qing Dynasties inherited the clothing system of the Han and Tang Dynasties,drew on the advanced Persian craft ideas and techniques,and Chineseized the "Nashi" craft weaving technology on the chest and back.By this method,the chest-back and the patch were spliced and sutured.On this basis,a complete set of official system for uniforms was established.In addition,the silk fabrics in the Ming Dynasty were relatively regular in type and structure,and the overall color matching of the appearance was relatively simple.In comparison,the texture of silk fabrics in the Qing Dynasty was relatively more dazzling,bright and colorful,and the categories were more diverse and beautiful.In addition,the Ming and Qing Dynasties established fabric weaving institutions at the central and local levels during the feudal autocracy,which satisfied the various needs of the feudal government for various silk products,daily official uniforms,rewards and other occasions.This institutional model dominated by government-run silk institutions not only promoted the continuous improvement of silk weaving skills,but also completed the concept of "things must have justice" in the traditional society of "Tao is based on morality,and Qi is based on etiquette".This institutional model not only gave full play to the superb level of clothing weaving skills,but also shaped the independent and complete cultural connotation of Chinese clothing.The research results of this paper can help scholars to provide data sorting and case reference for the study of ancient silk history.During the Ming and Qing Dynasties,local silk weaving institutions were mainly concentrated in Nanjing and Zhejiang Provinces and there were nearly 18 silk manufacturing institutions there.Therefore,this also made Jiangsu and Zhejiang regions the areas with the largest number of weaving,printing and dyeing institutions in the Ming and Qing Dynasties.Among these fabric processing,printing and dyeing workshops in Jiangsu and Zhejiang,the local weaving and printing institutions in Hangzhou and Suzhou were the largest.In the middle and late period of the Ming Dynasty,many fabric printing & dyeing and processing institutions in Suzhou and Hangzhou gradually increased in size.These institutions gradually evolved from the textile printing & dyeing organizations run by local governments into ones under centralized management.These institutions were dedicated to special types of weaving commissions and bureaus for the weaving of royal silk fabrics.The imperial court also continuously dispatched weaving managers to go down to the Jiangnan area by boat to supervise the weaving of royal robes.During the Ming and Qing Dynasties,the silk weaving institutions sponsored by local governments not only needed to meet the fabric weaving plan distributed by the imperial court every year,but also had some temporary imperial edicts that required additional weaving work.In some special cases,due to the urgent affairs of the imperial court,the fabric weaving institutions run by the central and local governments could not meet the needs of the orders.Therefore,the court would urgently purchase fabrics from the private sector to use them,commonly known as "responding to the call of the imperial court to purchase supplies".At that time,the key areas for the distribution of court fabrics were mainly concentrated in Jiangsu and Zhejiang regions where the silk fabric industry was relatively developed,including Suzhou,Nanjing,Hangzhou,Songjiang,Huzhou,Jiaxing and other places.The content of the additional work sent by the imperial court to the local area includes three major projects:robe forging processing,fabric transformation and annual manufacturing process.The research results of this paper can help scholars to provide data sorting and case reference for the study of ancient silk history.
作者
任晟萱
REN Shengxuan(Academy of Arts&Design,Tsinghua University,Beijing 100089,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2022年第5期136-144,共9页
Journal of Silk
关键词
明清时期
真丝织物
传统服饰
官服
龙袍
艺术特征
生产工艺
the Ming and Qing Dynasties
silk fabrics
traditional clothing
official uniforms
dragon robes
artistic features
production technology
作者简介
任晟萱(1989-),女,博士研究生,研究方向为染织服装艺术设计。
