摘要
[研究意义]台湾省邹人传统服饰具有独特的地域性和民族性,通过对邹人服饰演变的探究可明晰邹人族群的社会变迁。[研究方法]以邹人传统服饰为研究对象,运用文献归纳法、实例分析法对邹人传统服饰的形制、结构进行梳理,并分析其变迁的社会原因,[研究结果与结论]研究认为:邹人传统服饰作为邹人文化的一种具体表现形式,在社会变迁中不断适应与改变。通过狩猎获取兽皮制成的衣饰是邹人早期最具特色的传统服饰,随着狩猎经济衰落,由兽皮制成的衣饰慢慢淡出邹人服饰的主要地位。由于汉文化的传播,连袖、对襟、滚边等元素进入到邹人服饰中,长袖对襟开衫与胸衣的搭配成为邹人传统服饰的代表,通过独特的穿着方式与纹样特征发展出具有邹人本土化风格的服饰特色。现代邹人传统服饰在服装形制上未有大的改变,在面料与制作上的变化使邹人传统服装呈现出更加鲜明的现代气息。传统服饰作为邹人传统文化的重要组成部分,可以使邹人产生强烈的身份认同,利于文化自信的建立与增强。
Tsou nationality is one of the Gaoshan nationalities of Taiwan province.It is a member of China’s multi-ethnic family. In the long-term historical development process, Tsou has created a unique clothing culture. The Tradition clothing culture of Tsou not only remains the unique features of the southern ethnic minorities but also embodies the Han characteristics in the Central Plain.As the important part of Tsou nationality culture,the tradition clothing culture of Tsou shows unique history,life and faith.It is continuously reforming and enriching itself, and following the times to evolve itself.By exploring the evolution of Tsou traditional costumes, we can clarify the social changes of Tsou. Taking Tsou traditional costumes as the research object,this paper combs the shape and structure of Tsou traditional costumes by using the methods of literature induction and case analysis.Tsou took hunting as their daily life form and processed animal skins into clothes through tanning technology in the early phase. The production methods and materials directly reflected the original ecological characteristics of the Tsou. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, due to the spread of Han culture, elements such as sleeves, lapels and piping entered Tsou clothing,and the diversity of Tsou traditional costumes increased. During the Japanese occupation period, Tsou male wore sleeveless long clothes, shawls and dresses, matched with abdomen wraps up and abdominal bags, and Tsou female wore long sleeved cardigans,abdomen wraps up and waist skirts. At this time, Tsou traditional costumes shape was formed,Tsou traditional costumes characteristics were developed through unique clothing materials, wearing style and pattern characteristics. In modern society, the demand for traditional costumes is reduced, and Tsou traditional costumes are separated from Tsou daily life. Due to the national movement, Tsou national consciousness is awakened and strengthened, the resumption of sacrificial ceremonies has become an important occasion for wearing traditional costumes. Long sleeved cardigans and abdomen wraps up have become the representative symbols of traditional clothing. At the same time, clothing materials, texture and workmanship have undergone comprehensive changes.By consulting historical documents and materials, social reasons for the changes of Tsou traditional costumes. The analysis shows that Tsou traditional costumes, as a specific form of Tsou culture, constantly adapts and changes in social changes. The traditional costumes culture is influenced by the external cultural background, macro policy and production mode of the nation.Clothing made of animal skins through hunting was the most distinctive traditional clothing of Tsou in the early stage.With the decline of hunting economy, clothing made of animal skins gradually faded out of the main position of Tsou clothing.Due to the spread of Han culture, elements such as sleeves, placket and piping have entered Tsou clothing. The matching of long sleeve placket cardigan and abdomen wraps up has become the representative of Tsou traditional clothing. Through unique wearing style and pattern characteristics, Tsou clothing characteristics with localized style have been developed. There is positive significance for the research of the dress phenomenon in different culture fields, the integration and the development between the different nationality clothing cultures, the inheritance and development of the essence of national culture. At present, Tsou traditional clothing has not changed significantly in clothing form.As the most distinctive traditional dress in Tsou traditional culture,it began to become a formal attire, and also continued to develop towards delicacy, artistry and commercialization. This also led to the strengthening of its fabric, technology, color and decoration, thus changing its original cultural function. Clothing materials and accessories are mostly finished products, and soft fabrics such as fancy cloth and silk have replaced the self-made fabrics in the past. For accessories people also buy more finished products, which was not the case in the past.The changes in fabric and production make Tsou traditional clothing show a more distinctive modern flavor. In addition, national costumes, as an important medium and tool to highlight national identity, will have greater development space when paying attention to national history and culture, which can make Tsou have strong identity and help to establish and enhance cultural self-confidence.
作者
范嘉慧
李强
陈东生
FAN Jiahui;LI Qiang;CHEN Dongsheng(Department of Garment Engineering,Jiangxi Institute of Fashion,Nanchang 330200 China;The Office of Fashion Guide,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430020 China;China Fashion Culture Research Center,Jiangxi Institute of Fashion,Nanchang 330200 China)
出处
《服饰导刊》
2022年第1期37-45,共9页
Fashion Guide
基金
教育部人文社会科学研究规划基金项目(18YJA760001)。
关键词
邹人
高山族
传统服饰
服装款式
社会变迁
狩猎文化
Tsou
traditional costumes culture
garment style
social change
hunting culture
作者简介
范嘉慧,江西服装学院服装工程学院教师。;李强,博士,武汉纺织大学《服饰导刊》编辑部副编审。;通信作者:陈东生,江西服装学院中华服饰文化研究中心教授。
