摘要
[研究意义]台湾少数民族作为中华民族的重要一员,其服装形制表现出一定的汉元素特征,探究其形制演变过程及其汉文化的内涵,有利于民族间的团结融合,丰富了台湾少数民族服饰文化研究成果。[研究方法]通过相关文献及馆藏服饰实例,以明清时期为时间范畴的历史脉络时间轴出发,探究台湾少数民族服装形制的变化内容并分析其变迁的社会原因。[研究结果与结论]研究认为:台湾少数民族的传统服饰在明清之前大多保持着原始社会的服装形态,通过狩猎获取兽皮或编草木制衣是其早期服饰特征。随着社会不断地发展,明清时期的台湾少数民族已使用水平背带织布机织麻为衣,确立了其传统服饰的方衣形制与服饰纹样。受汉文化传播的影响,斜襟、琵琶襟、对襟、绲边、箭袖等汉式服装结构不断进入到台湾少数民族的服饰中,服装形制也由原始的方衣系统向汉式服饰的剪裁形制转变,并在社会变迁中不断适应与改变,通过独特的穿着方式与纹样特征发展出具有本民族特色的服饰文化。
As an important member of the Chinese nation, the clothing of Taiwan minorities shows certain characteristics of Han elements. To explore the evolution process of its form and its connotation of Han culture is conducive to the unity and integration of ethnic groups, and enrich the research results of Taiwan minority costume culture. Based on relevant literature and examples of clothing collected in the museum, this paper explores the changes in the form of clothing of Taiwan ethnic minorities and analyzes the social reasons for their changes by starting from the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The research shows that the traditional clothing of Taiwan minorities mostly kept the clothing form of primitive society before Ming and Qing Dynasties, and the characteristics of their early clothing were hunting for animal skins or weaving grass and wood for clothing. With the continuous development of society, the Minority nationalities in Taiwan in Ming and Qing Dynasties used the horizontal strap weaving machine to weave hemp to make clothes, which established the square shape and pattern of their traditional clothes. Because of the influence of the spread of Han culture, Chinese dress structures such as flanged, lute flanged, flanged, arrow sleeve etc. were continuously introduced into the clothing of ethnic minorities in Taiwan. Their clothing has also changed from the original square clothing system to the tailoring of Chinese clothing, and has been constantly adapted to and changed in the social changes. Through the unique way of wearing and pattern characteristics, they have developed the clothing culture with their own national characteristics.
作者
朱巧玲
罗戎蕾
李纳
ZHU Qiaoling;LUO Ronglei;LI Na(School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018 China;School of International Education,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018 China;Zhejiang Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center,Hangzhou 310018 China)
出处
《服饰导刊》
2022年第6期55-62,共8页
Fashion Guide
基金
浙江省丝绸与文化艺术研究中心培育项目(ZSFCRC20204PY)“当代数字时尚艺术研究”
浙江省一般软科学研究计划项目(2022C35099)“虚拟与现实双生态下的浙江省数字时尚产业发展路径研究”
浙江省大学生新苗人才计划项目成果(2021R406067)“基于VR技术的游戏女性服饰造型设计”。
关键词
明清时期
台湾少数民族
汉文化
服装形制
变迁
社会原因
Ming and Qing Dynasties
Taiwan’s ethnic minorities
Han culture
clothing structure
change
social reasons
作者简介
朱巧玲,浙江理工大学服装学院硕士研究生。;李纳,浙江理工大学服装学院硕士研究生;通信作者:罗戎蕾,博士,浙江理工大学国际教育学院教授。
