摘要
针对平幅轧染中针织物易形变、张力不均带来皱褶和染色不匀等问题,通过选用多种化学结构活性染料对棉针织物进行浸轧染色,借助方差分析的手段,考察针织物在不同拉伸形变条件下固色后染料结构对染色性能的影响。结果表明:针织物采用不同活性基活性红实施平幅轧染,无论在横向还是纵向张力拉伸条件下预烘及汽蒸固色,拉伸对针织物的染色与匀染影响较小;由于染料结构的差异导致棉针织物对染料的吸附固色不同,不同的染料对同一种针织物的浸轧染色提升力有所区别;染中浅色时轧染可节省更多染料,尤其对于活性红WBRH(KN型),轧染色深明显高于浸染,更推荐轧染方式;染色后针织物皂洗牢度大于或等于4级。
In view of the challenge in the pad-dyeing of open width knitted fabric,which leads to unleveled dyeing and crease formation caused by varying tension during the dyeing operation,reactive dyes of various chemical structures were adopted to pad-dye cotton knitted fabric,and the influence of the dye structure on the dyeing performance of the cotton knitted fabric under different tensile deformation conditions after fixation was investigated by means of variance analysis.The results showed that when the pad-dye cotton knitted fabric are subjected to open width pad-dyeing with reactive red of different active groups,and prebaked and fixed by steaming under the transverse or longitudinal tensioning condition,the tension has small influence on the dyeing and the level dyeing of the knitted fabric;and the difference in the dye structures causes different absorption and fixation of the cotton knitted fabric to dyes,thus,different dyes have difference in the pad-dyeing lifting power to the same knitted fabric.When dyeing in light colors,pad-dyeing can save more dye,especially for reactive red WBRH(KN type),the color depth of pad-dyeing is significantly higher than that of dip dyeing.The dyeing performance and levelness were not affected and the washing color fastness were greater than or equal to 4 grades.
作者
王秋平
毛志平
钟毅
徐红
张琳萍
WANG Qiuping;MAO Zhiping;ZHONG Yi;XU Hong;ZHANG Linping(College of Chemistry,Chemical Engineering and Biotechnology,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China;Key Laboratory of Science&Technology of Eco-Textile,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China;Innovation Center for Textile Science and Technology,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China)
出处
《纺织学报》
EI
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2019年第11期94-99,共6页
Journal of Textile Research
基金
国家重点研发计划资助项目(2017YFB0309700)
关键词
针织物
平幅
形变
轧染
活性染料
knitted fabric
open width
deformation
pad dyeing
reactive dye
作者简介
第一作者:王秋平(1992-),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为针织物平幅连续染色;通信作者:钟毅(1974-),女,副教授,博士。主要研究方向为纺织清洁染色和印花。E-mail:zhongyi@dhu.edu.cn。
