摘要
袆衣是宋代皇后最高等级的礼服,对理解中国传统服饰礼制具有重要价值。为了更好地保护和传承南宋服饰文化,让人们更加清晰、具象认识和了解南宋皇后袆衣的形制风貌,选取南薰殿旧藏宋宁宗皇后画像中的袆衣为研究对象,通过对图像资料的比例测算和文献记载的梳理,深入分析该服饰的领部特征、袖型结构和衣身形制,借助虚拟制衣技术对其进行3D结构还原,并采用实物样衣仿制进行验证。研究表明:南宋皇后袆衣领型为交领右衽,具有完整的衣领弧线;袖型为大袖结构,腋下造型为倾斜式;衣身为右衽大襟,大襟与内襟大小结构一致。宋宁宗皇后袆衣翟鸟纹样排列规则为横向、纵向各12对,且翟鸟纹与小轮花在行、列关系中皆呈相间排列。通过结构分析、数字化复原和实物仿制,对南宋皇后袆衣的形制进行考证,有助于传统服饰文化的传承和发展。
Huiyi is the highest-level ceremonial robe of the empress during the Song Dynasty,bearing significant implications for comprehending the etiquette system of traditional Chinese clothing.To better preserve and transmit the clothing culture of the Southern Song Dynasty,and to provide a clearer,more concrete understanding of the form and style of the empress's Huiyi,this study takes the garment depicted in the portrait of Empress Ningzong from the former Nanxun Hall collection as the research subject.Through proportional analysis of the portrait and a thorough review of historical documents,the collar characteristics,sleeve structure,and overall garment silhouette were systematically examined.The robe's structure was digitally reconstructed in 3D using virtual fitting technology,and the findings were verified through the lmitation of a physical prototype.The research indicates that:The collar of the Southern Song empress's Huiyi is a cross-collared(jiao ling)right-closing(you ren)style with a complete curved neckline;the sleeves are large and wide(da xiu),with an inclined design at the underarm.The robe body is right-closing with a large front panel(da jin),which is identical in size and structure to the inner panel.The pheasant-like"Zhai Bird"patterns on Empress Ningzong's Huiyi are arranged in a grid of 12 pairs horizontally and 12 pairs vertically,with the patterns alternating with small wheel-flower motifs in both rows and columns.Through structural analysis,digital restoration,and physical lmitation,the form of the Southern Song empress's Huiyi was verified,contributing to the preservation and development of traditional clothing culture.
作者
季晓芬
杨欣欣
蔡丽玲
沈海娜
陈百超
JI Xiaofen;YANG Xinxin;CAI Liling;SHEN Haina;CHEN Baichao(International Institute of Fashion Technology,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;China National Silk Museum,Hangzhou 310002,China;School of Fashion Design and Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)
出处
《服装学报》
北大核心
2025年第5期389-395,共7页
Journal of Clothing Research
基金
浙江省哲学社会科学规划项目(24NDJC170YB)
浙江省高校重大人文社会科学攻关计划项目(2024QN131)
宋韵文化研究传承中心课题项目(23196063-N)。
关键词
皇后袆衣
结构
形制
南宋服饰
仿制
empress's huiyi
structure
form
clothing of the Southern Song Dynasty
lmitation
作者简介
季晓芬(1971-),女,教授,博士生导师。主要研究方向为传统服饰结构等。Email:xiaofenji@zstu.edu.cn。
