期刊文献+

“冠服归秦”说考——基于历史书写的视角

An examination of the theory of“Crowns and Robes Reunified under Qin”:From the perspective of historical writing
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摘要 目前学界尚未对“冠服归秦”说的史源、真伪及概念演变进行深入考察。本文利用二重证据法的方法,结合传世文献与出土简牍、画像石、实物,从多个维度对该说进行考辨。首先,利用画像石等图像资料,指出该说可能并不是史实;其次,考辨诸文献的内在关系;最后,分析此说与史实、出土简牍、画像石、实物之间的矛盾。有研究认为,最早主张该说的学者是东汉人胡广。然而,史实表明,秦汉时期的“柱后惠文冠”(法冠)并非楚王之冠,秦及西汉的侍中并未佩戴赵惠文冠,东汉末年武氏祠画像石中的齐王形象亦未佩戴高山冠,秦及西汉尚未形成严密的冠服分类制度,这均与“冠服归秦”相矛盾,这表明该说不是史实。 According to the records in The Continued Book of Han:Treatise on Carriages and Dress(Yufu Zhi)by Sima Biao of the Western Jin Dynasty,whenever the State of Qin conquered a rival state,it would confiscate the defeated ruler’s ceremonial attire(including crowns and robes)and redistribute them to high-ranking officials at the central court.This practice represented a top-down reconstruction of attire unification driven by political consolidation,forming the core of the theoretical framework known as the“Crowns and Robes Reunified under Qin”theory.Previous scholars have largely accepted this narrative as an indisputable historical fact.Given its implications for tracing the origins of pivotal headgear such as the“Military Crown”(Wuguan),“Legal Crown”(Faguan),and“High Mountain Crown”(Gaoshanguan)-a meticulous reexamination of its authenticity remains imperative.However,academic circles have yet to thoroughly investigate its historical origins.This study employs the dual evidence method,integrating transmitted historical texts with archaeological materials such as the Liye Qin bamboo slips,Qin Dynasty terracotta warriors,artifacts from the Mawangdui Han tomb in Changsha,the Mozuizi Han tomb in Wuwei,the Tushantun Han tomb in Qingdao,and stone reliefs from the Wu Family Shrine of the Eastern Han Dynasty-to critically examine the“Crowns and Robes Reunified under Qin”theory from multiple analytical dimensions.First,it traces the textual genealogy of early references to this theory,identifying its earliest proponent among scholars.Second,it evaluates inconsistencies between the theory and competing theories,historical facts,and visual/material evidence,thereby assessing its credibility.This study draws the following important conclusions:by examining the historical sources of early textual accounts on attire-including Deciding Alone,Han Officials’Rituals,Book of Han:Treatise on Carriages and Dress(Yufu Zhi),and The Continued Book of Han:Treatise on Carriages and Dress(Yufu Zhi)-it reveals that the“Crowns and Robes Reunified under Qin”theory was first advocated by Hu Guang,a scholar of the Eastern Han Dynasty.Subsequent figures such as Cai Yong,Ying Shao,Dong Ba,and Sima Biao inherited this claim,yet no scholars from the Qin or Western Han periods are recorded as endorsing it.This suggests the theory may not reflect historical reality.Meanwhile,historical evidence shows that the“Zhuhou Huiwen Crown”(Legal Crown)during the Qin and Han periods was not originally the crown of the King of Chu,but more likely created by King Huiwen of Qin.Additionally,during the Qin and early Western Han periods,the title“Palace Attendant”referred to a functional role rather than a formal office,and its bearers did not wear the Zhao Huiwen Crown.In the late Eastern Han Dynasty,stone reliefs from the Wu Family Shrine depict the King of Qi wearing a reaching heaven crown(Tongtianguan),not the high mountain crown(Gaoshanguan)as claimed by the theory.Moreover,the crowns and robes worn by Qin terracotta figures demonstrate that the Qin state did not fully adopt the attire systems of the eastern states(Guandong),and neither the Qin nor the early Western Han had established a rigid hierarchical classification for ceremonial dress.These discrepancies collectively undermine the validity of the“Crowns and Robes Reunified under Qin”theory,suggesting it is likely a historical construction rather than an empirical fact.This study draws on the burgeoning“historical writing”research paradigm in historiography,conducting an in-depth examination of the historical sources and authenticity of the“Crowns and Robes Reunified under Qin”theory from multiple perspectives,including source material provenance and textual formation contexts.It not only comprehensively traces the textual genealogy of transmitted literary sources to identify the earliest scholar advocating this theory but also utilizes archaeological materials-such as excavated bamboo slips,relief carvings,and physical artifacts-to demonstrate its incompatibility with historical realities of the Qin-Han period.
作者 刘晨亮 LIU Chenliang(School of History,Renmin University of China,Beijing 100872,China)
出处 《丝绸》 北大核心 2025年第10期99-108,共10页 Journal of Silk
基金 教育部人文社会科学青年基金西部和边疆地区项目(24XJC770002)。
关键词 汉代 武冠 法冠 高山冠 服饰历史 服饰文化 历史书写 辨伪 the Han Dynasty military crown legal crown high mountain crown costume history costume culture historical writing authentication
作者简介 刘晨亮(1996-),男,博士研究生,主要从事秦汉魏晋礼制史的研究。
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