摘要
为通过单经单纬交织在双经四纬提花织物表层实现渐变织纹效果,基于双层结构原理提出含8种显色结构类型双经四纬单纬渐变显色提花结构模型。基于阴影组织成形原理构建表层组织库,并讨论里层经纬浮沉规律与表里层关系配置类型,用于双经四纬单纬渐变显色组织成形及数量统计,最终模拟试样来分析双经四纬单纬渐变显色提花结构的呈色特征。结果表明:以缎纹组织为基础组织时,双经四纬提花结构模型含经纬浮沉规律超10^(60)个,其中,双经四纬单纬渐变显色提花结构显色组织数目超10^(29)个;将红、黄、绿、蓝、黑、白6种原色丝线作为经、纬纱线色彩,试样表层具有实现黑白灰无彩色的明度调控以及单一色相有彩色的明度与饱和度调节的能力,可指导双经四纬单纬渐变显色提花产品体系构建与产品开发。
Objective In order to realize the color gradation effect for face layer through the interlacement of single warp and single weft in jacquard structure model with double warps and quadruple wefts,single-weft color gradation jacquard structure model with double warps and quadruple wefts were proposed based on the construction principle of double-ply weave,including 8 structural series.This study serves as a significant part of the construction and color rendering characteristics analysis of jacquard structure model with double warps and quadruple wefts and provides methods to jacquard fabric development.Method First,two groups of warps and four groups of wefts were placed for the construction of jacquard structure model with double warps and quadruple wefts.Then,face weave-database was built based on shaded weave construction principle.What′s more,warp and weft intersection diagram for back layer construction,as well as face and back layer relationships were configurated for developing single-weft color gradation coloring weaves,with their quantities calculated simultaneously.Finally,the structural coloring characteristics of jacquard structure with double warps and quadruple wefts for single-weft color gradation were analyzed through specimen simulation.Results 48 types of color thread configurations were obtained when two groups of achromatic warp threads and four groups of chromatic weft threads are employed,while 288 series of that were realized when two groups of achromatic weft threads replacing two groups of chromatic weft threads.Then,8 structural coloring varieties of jacquard structure model with double warps and quadruple wefts for single-weft coloring gradation were established.The maximum of warp and weft intersection diagram for jacquard structure model with double warps and quadruple wefts is 2 to the 8R squared power.Further,more than 8.4×10^(29)single-weft color gradation weaves were calculated when weave repeat R(weave repeat)equals to 5,while more than 1.6×10^(60)warp and weft intersection diagram for jacquard structure model with double warps and quadruple wefts were obtained.What′s more,specimen simulation was carried out under specific technique parameters,12-threads 5-steps satin shaded face weave-database as well as warp and weft float were employed,with the interlacement of achromatic color threads,though influenced by the thread density and the density of face warp and weft,the black,white and the gray transition were obtained,besides,texture changed when warp or weft floats varied on the surface of specimen.In addition,on one hand,lightness and saturation adjustment of chromatic color gradation achieved through the interlacement of single achromatic warp and single chromatic weft on the fabric surface,on the other hand,the color of the ground part expressed a specific hue tendency.Last but not least,the figured part and the ground part of each specimen are able to be realized via independent regulation of warp and weft selection on the fabric surface layer simultaneously,presenting that the jacquard structure model with double warps and quadruple wefts for single-weft color gradation proposed is effective.Conclusion Jacquard structure model with double warps and quadruple wefts for single-weft color gradation is able to realize the independent control of the face and back warp and weft.If weave repeat outnumbers 5,more than warp and weft intersection diagram generates under jacquard structure model with double warps and quadruple wefts,while the quantity of single-weft color gradation coloring weaves exceeds.Besides,structural coloring of specimen simulation not only achieves lightness transition of achromatic color,but also realizes saturation transition of single chromatic color.Thus,this study contributes to the construction of digital weave-database and product development of jacquard structure model with double warps and quadruple wefts for single-weft color gradation.
作者
陆爽怿
陈思
周赳
LU Shuangyi;CHEN Si;ZHOU Jiu(Silk and Fashion Research Center of Zhejiang Province,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou,Zhejiang 310018,China;Zhejiang Sci-Tech University Shengzhou Innovation Research Institute,Shaoxing,Zhejiang 312400,China)
出处
《纺织学报》
北大核心
2025年第8期96-101,共6页
Journal of Textile Research
基金
国家社科基金艺术学项目(22BG121)。
关键词
数码提花
双经
双层织物
单纬渐变显色
结构成形
结构显色
织物设计
digital jacquard
double warp
double-ply
single-weft color gradation
structure formation
structural coloring
fabric design
作者简介
第一作者:陆爽怿(1996-),男,博士生。主要研究方向为数码纺织品设计;通信作者:周赳(1969-),男,教授,博士。主要研究方向为纺织品设计、数智时尚。E-mail:zhoujiu34@126.com。
