摘要
为开发具有独特复古风格的牛仔面料,以集聚纺竹节纱为经纱、棉氨纶包芯纱为纬纱,开发了弹力复古红边牛仔面料。设计面料经向紧度78.44%,纬向紧度52.73%,总紧度89.81%。设定匹长457 m,幅宽71 cm,总经根数1812根,经密255根/10 cm,纬密189根/10 cm。总结了各工序的关键工艺要点,包括纱线定形、球经工艺、染色工艺、分经工艺、浆纱工艺、织造工艺和后整理工艺等,实现了复古牛仔面料的顺利开发。试验结果表明,面料的水洗方式不同,显示出的颜色和外观效果各异;面料的各项物理指标均达到了设计要求。认为:开发的复古红边牛仔面料可满足不同人群的着装需求,为红边布牛仔爱好者提供更多的个性化选择。
In order to develop denim fabric with unique vintage style,condensed slub yarn was used as warp,cotton spandex core-spun yarn was used as weft,vintage red selvage elastic denim was developed.Warp tightness was designed 78.44%,weft tightness was designed 52.73%,and overall tightness was 89.81%.The fabric length were 457 m,the width was 71 cm,the total warp was 1812 yarns,warp density was 255 yarns/10 cm,weft density was 189 yarns/10 cm.The key points in each process were summarized,including yarn setting,ball warp process,dyeing process,warp splitting process,sizing process,weaving process and finishing process,et al.The vintage denim fabric was developed successfully.The test results showed that,the fabric showed different colors and appearance by different washing methods.The physical indexes of the fabric were reached the design requirements.It is considered that,the developed vintage red selvedge denim fabric could satisfy different consumer's requirement,it could provide more personalized options for red selvage denim lovers.
作者
刘幸乐
侯贺刚
姚继明
LIU Xingle;HOU Hegang;YAO Jiming(Hebei Xindadong Textile Co.,Ltd.,Shijiazhuang,050000,China;Hebei Functional Denim Technology Innovation Center,Shijiazhuang,052260,China;Hebei University of Science&Technology,Shijiazhuang,050018,China)
出处
《棉纺织技术》
2025年第9期70-73,共4页
Cotton Textile Technology
关键词
牛仔面料
红边布
复古风格
竹节纱
染色工艺
后整理工艺
水洗
denim fabric
red selvedge
vintage style
slub yarn
dyeing process
finishing process
washing
作者简介
刘幸乐(1985-),男,高级工程师,81401140lxl@163.com。
