摘要
依据浙江理工大学中华衣时尚艺术馆中带有条格纹样的服饰品,文章详细分析条格纹样在民国服饰中的构成特征。首先研究民国服饰条格纹样的设计背景,对装饰艺术运动进行概述,并且分析装饰艺术运动对纹饰设计的影响,装饰艺术运动使纹饰设计的生产由手工走向机械,线条由写实走向抽象。其次观察民国服饰条格纹样的设计细节与规律,将条格纹样的格型构成方式分成了单线式、正负式、重叠式三种,将条型构成方式分为凹凸式、组合式、单线式。最后分析民国服饰条格纹样的时尚与流行,民国服饰中的条格纹样在装饰艺术运动影响下,革新了生产技艺、优化了穿着效果且跳脱了符号隐喻,成为引领时代风尚的重要元素。本文期望了解条格纹样真正的内涵和底蕴,从而将条格纹样的美感运用到现代设计创作中。
The article analyzes in detail the composition characteristics of the strip and grid patterns of Republican-era clothing based on the clothing accessories with strip and grid patterns in the Chinese Fashion Art Museum of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University.Firstly,the design background of the Republic of China’s clothing strip and grid patterns was studied,and an overview of the Art Deco Movement was provided.It is pointed out that the Art Deco movement,as a transitional stage between the Art Nouveau and Modernist movements,emphasized formal beauty,accepted mechanical production,and had a profound impact on pattern design.During the same period,the Republic of China emphasized the integration of Chinese and Western clothing,opened up trading ports to sell Western fabrics,promoted the purpose of serving people with Western clothing,and introduced technology to promote woven fabrics.The clothing of the Republic of China was influenced by the Art Deco movement,with designers such as Ye Qianyu and Wan Laiming incorporating French design styles into Chinese clothing.The Art Deco movement shifted the production of decorative patterns from being manual to being mechanical.In the Republic of China,designers such as Chen Zhifo conducted research on pattern design methods that were adapted to mechanical production.The noble attribute of complex patterns was broken,and simple patterns such as strip and grid patterns became popular due to their ease of production.In addition,the Art Deco movement shifted the lines of decorative design from realism to abstraction,and abstract strip and grid patterns were no longer the disliked labels of the Middle Ages,but became representatives of fashion.The Republic of China was plagued by frequent political wars and weak national strength.Gender equality was deeply rooted in people’s minds,and clothing styles tended to be three-dimensional.Clothing fabrics tended to be increasingly light,and clothing was updated rapidly.These factors collectively led to the abstraction of clothing patterns,and the frequency of using strip and grid patterns which were characterized by their simplicity greatly increased.Secondly,by observing the design details and patterns of the Republic of China’s clothing strip and grid patterns,the grid pattern composition methods are divided into three types:single-line,positive and negative,and overlapping ones.The strip pattern composition methods are divided into concave-convex,combination,and single-line ones.The patterns of the Republic of China’s clothing patterns are abstract and varied,produced using machinery and organized in a regular and orderly manner.Finally,the article analyzed fashion and popularity of the strip and grid patterns in Republican-era clothing.Three major conclusions were drawn.First,under the influence of the Art Deco movement,striped patterns revolutionized production techniques.By leveraging the convenience of mechanical production,they achieved a wide variety of styles even before garment assembly,and during the clothing manufacturing process,their endless variations were further enhanced through positional transformations.Second,the Art Deco movement shifted the lines of decorative design from realism to abstraction,allowing the advantages of abstract patterns to flourish.Strip and grid patterns optimized the visual effect of clothing:grid garments accentuated the body curves of slender figures,while vertical stripes visually elongated the silhouettes of fuller figures.Third,striped and grid patterns broke free from symbolic metaphors—no longer representing nobility or humility.They appeared in diverse settings,worn by people of all backgrounds,becoming a key element in defining the era’s fashion trends.To sum up,this study aims to explore the true essence and cultural significance of strip and grid patterns,with the goal of integrating their aesthetic appeal into modern design practices.
作者
管恩福
麻湘萍
王志成
GUAN Enfu;MA Xiangping;WANG Zhicheng(School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Zhejiang Provincial Research Center for Smart Style and Creative Design,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)
出处
《丝绸》
北大核心
2025年第5期121-130,共10页
Journal of Silk
基金
国家社会科学基金后期资助重点项目(23FYSA004)。
关键词
装饰艺术运动
民国服饰
条格纹样
正负式格纹
重叠式格纹
组合式条纹
Art Deco movement
clothing in the Republican period
strip and grid patterns
positive and negative grid pattern
overlapping grid pattern
combination stripe
作者简介
管恩福(2001-),女,硕士研究生,研究方向为服装设计;通信作者:麻湘萍,实验师,531459159@qq.com。
