摘要
泰州七座明代墓出土了大量纺织品,形制丰富、文化深厚。文章以出土实物和古籍史料为研究资料,运用实物与文献互证、历史社会学等方法,对明代成化至嘉靖时期泰州地区服饰风尚演变及其成因、纹饰的审美文化展开探讨。研究表明:一是嘉靖时期泰州地区服饰尺寸发生较大的变化,且在嘉靖中后期袍服出现复古款式。二是正德、嘉靖初期服饰出现“入奢”的现象,从富商阶层的加入形成奢侈消费而逐步兴盛,慕古服饰便是士大夫应对身份模糊化的手段。三是水乡的地理环境、明代中叶文人审美及儒佛混融的文化信仰是地域服饰纹饰组合产生的条件。
Since 1979,more than a dozen Ming Dynasty tombs have been discovered in the Taizhou area,and over three hundred pieces of textiles have been successively unearthed from seven of them,including hats,robes,shirts,jackets,skirts,pants,vests,wallets,towels,pillows,shoes,and socks,which feature a rich variety and profound cultural implications.Particularly,different costumes from tombs reveal the transformation of social fashion in the Taizhou area during the mid-Ming period.Therefore,the research findings can provide valuable reference for the study of regional clothing culture in the Ming Dynasty and its innovative design.The paper takes unearthed artifacts and ancient books as research materials,and explores the evolution of fashion trends and its reasons,as well as the aesthetic culture of patterns in the Taizhou area from the Chenghua to Jiajing periods in the Ming Dynasty through mutual verification of physical artifacts and documentary evidence,as well as historical sociology.The research indicates that there was a significant change in the dimensions of robes during the early Jiajing period,and in the middle and later stages of Jiajing in the Ming Dynasty,the dimensions of coats showed a considerable increasing trend,and retro-style robes appeared during this period,which provides insight into the internal mechanisms of the evolution of fashion in the Taizhou area from the Chenghua to Jiajing periods in the Ming Dynasty.The unearthed artifacts corroborate that the Zhengde period in the Ming Dynasty was a turning point for the social fashion in the Taizhou area,shifting from“frugality”to“luxury”.The rise of Hui merchants and the social environment of the integration of scholars and merchants injected momentum into the luxury consumption of clothing during the Jiajing period in the Ming Dynasty.The class identity boundaries became more blurred at this time,leading scholars to create new garment styles to cope with fashion crises.Although ancient-style clothing was born for class distinction,it was actually an emotional expression of scholars facing changes in society.The standardized combination of natural and object patterns is highly characteristic of the times and region,reflecting elegant culture of water towns and the natural aesthetic view,as well as the integration of elegance and vulgarity under the faith of Confucianism and Buddhism.The paper takes the costumes unearthed from the Ming Dynasty tombs in Taizhou as the research subject,collecting specific data on 55 pieces of costumes,and combines relevant historical materials such as local records for analysis.Firstly,the unearthed clothing is sorted based on the birth and death years of the tomb owners,and the 55 pieces of costumes are categorized into“robes”and“coats”according to their length.Secondly,the paper analyzes the clothing from aspects such as sizes,details and materials,summarizing the structural characteristics and evolutional rules of“robes”and“jackets”over time,and the reasons for these changes are analyzed from historical sociological perspective.Finally,the paper analyzes the artistic features of the patterns from the costumes unearthed from the Ming Dynasty tombs in Taizhou,including subject matter,composition,and craftsmanship,and then summarizes the aesthetic culture of the clothing patterns in conjunction with the aesthetic views of literati.In summary,compared to academic researches focus on the social fashion and aesthetic culture of the late Ming Dynasty,an in-depth interpretation of the Ming Dynasty costumes unearthed in Taizhou allows us to truly feel the transformation of social fashion in the Taizhou area during the Jiajing period in the Ming Dynasty,which is also of great academic significance for studying the aesthetic concepts of scholars in the mid-Ming Dynasty and the clothing culture of the Ming Dynasty.
作者
单春宇
范前程
SHAN Chunyu;FAN Qiancheng(College of Art,Guilin University of Technology,Guilin 541006,China)
出处
《丝绸》
北大核心
2025年第3期109-118,共10页
Journal of Silk
基金
国家社会科学基金后期资助一般项目(19FZXB009)。
关键词
泰州明代墓
服饰
形制特征
风尚演变
服饰纹样艺术
审美文化
Ming Dynasty tombs in Taizhou
costumes
style characteristics
fashion evolution
textile pattern art
aesthetic culture
作者简介
单春宇(1997-),女,硕士研究生,研究方向为中国传统服饰文化;通信作者:范前程,副教授,79457478@qq.com。
