摘要
为优化夏季用轻薄但效应单一的平针结构针织物的热湿调节功能,采用不同粗细的涤纶与氨纶搭配,通过原料细度、织物密度以及孔隙率调节,设计开发9种变化孔隙的单面纬编结构织物。研究原料、织物结构和孔隙对织物透气、吸湿等热湿舒适性能的影响。结果表明,孔隙特征与织物透气导湿性能呈现明显关联。织物体积质量在200~400 kg/m^(3)之间,体积质量越小,透气率越高。在机型原料相同的情况下,局部使用细纱会使织物表面孔隙占比上升,织物组织结构影响平均孔径,孔径最大可以达到105μm。在织物组织结构相同的情况下,织物平均孔径与单向水分传递指数和透湿率均呈现正相关;织物水分蒸发速率与织物体积质量和表面孔隙率也呈现正相关性。模糊综合评价的结果表明,对于单面添纱织物来说,添加氨纶虽然能增强单向导湿性能,但氨纶收缩织物孔隙,增加厚重,使透气效果降低,故在原料不含氨纶且织物表面孔隙率较高的情况下,织物的透气导湿性能最优。
Objective Human body is prone to perspiration,and requirements for thermal and wet comfort of clothing are essential.Permeability and moisture conductivity of fabrics are important influencing factors for heat and humidity management and regulation,and the transmission of fabric to air and implicit sweat is largely affected by its pore structure,including pore size and pore distribution.Method Weft knitted lace plated structures made from different yarn counts were prepared which formed a differential capillary effect inside the fabric to improve fabric moisture absorption and transmission.The lace plated structures used for making the fabrics endowed the fabric surface with different concave/convex patterns,aiming for improved wicking effect.9.3 tex(384 f),5.6 tex(24 f),5.6 tex(216 f),3.3 tex(12 f)polyester and 2.2 tex spandex were selected as raw materials,and the German Terrot S 296-2 single side circular weft knitting machine was used,and 9 types of fabrics were prepared with weft knitting lace plated structure as samples.The effects of fabric pores,raw materials and structure on fabric moisture absorption,moisture transmission and moisture dissipation were evaluated.Results The air permeability of the fabrics was found to be positively correlated with the bulk density,surface porosity and average pore diameter.Since most of the air flew through the fabric pores,the size and distribution of fabric pores were adopted to determine the fabric permeability.The bulk density and average pore diameter showed a great influence on the moisture absorption and conductivity of the fabric.The bulk density and average pore diameter were positively correlated with the moisture conductivity as a whole according to specific conditions.With the same raw materials and organizational structure,the size and distribution of pores were found to affect the tightness of the fabric.Higher bulk density and larger the average pore diameter resulted in tighter fabric structure and greater capillary pressure.The surface porosity was positively correlated with the moisture dissipation performance of the fabric.From the perspective of fabric raw materials and structure,the addition of polyurethane fiber increased the gradient of differential capillary effect of the fabric,leading to improvement of the moisture absorption and conductivity of the fabric,but not the moisture dissipation.Fabric structure will affect the moisture conductivity and moisture dissipation performance.The amount of meshes on the fabric surface was directly related to the specific surface area for fabric evaporation,and more meshes would lead to the better moisture dissipation performance.Conclusion The results show that the combination of ultrafine polyester and conventional yarn has advantage in moisture absorption and transmission.A fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method is adopted for analysis.Conclusion is drawn,fineness difference of yarns can enrich the gradient of differential capillary effect of fabrics,and achieve a better differential capillary effect,improving the moisture absorption and conductivity of the fabric.The 6^(#)and 7^(#)fabrics in process 4 have certain advantages in the comprehensive properties of permeability and moisture conductivity,which means the plated fabric with high surface porosity and without spandex,composed of loops and floating structure,has the best comprehensive performance of moisture transmission and permeability.The surface porosity with more meshes in the unit circulation tissue,leading up to the better comprehensive moisture absorption and perspiration performance.The nine schemes in this paper are easy to produce and do not need to obtain unidirectional moisture conduction through additives,which provides theoretical and experimental basis for the development of sportswear fabrics with good moisture and heat management ability,environmental protection and sustainable utilization.
作者
方雪明
董智佳
丛洪莲
丁玉琴
FANG Xueming;DONG Zhijia;CONG Honglian;DING Yuqin(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)
出处
《纺织学报》
EI
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2024年第5期51-59,共9页
Journal of Textile Research
基金
国家自然科学基金项目(61902150)
江苏省研究生科研与实践创新计划项目(1065212032220020)。
关键词
纬编织物
单面添纱
孔隙结构
透气性能
单向导湿
涤纶
氨纶
weft knitted fabric
single-sided lace plated stitch
pore structure
air permeability
unidirectional moisture conductivity
polyester yarn
spandex yarn
作者简介
第一作者:方雪明(2000-),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为纬编功能织物结构开发;通信作者:董智佳(1986-),女,副教授,博士。主要研究方向为针织成形织物结构研发。E-mail:dongzj0921@163.com。
