摘要
为清晰阐释畲族传统服装设色分布及其关联规则,文章利用图像分析技术解析意象色彩配色关系。以散居于浙、赣、闽三地畲族为例,对田野调查采集的150幅典型传统服装图像进行色彩解析。通过利用自适应聚类机制提取意象色彩,分别构建三地服装色彩谱系;设计基于向量集的Apriori算法,解析畲族服装意象色之间的多元配色关系。实验结果表明,浙、赣、闽三地畲族服装用色集中于黑、红、蓝等八色,主色较为接近;最小支持度优选0.2时,能够有效区分三地服装多元配色差异。其中浙江地区二元配对色组、江西地区三元配对色组表色相对丰富。改进后的算法配色规则输出平均耗时0.032 s,能够快速解析畲族服装设色关联规则,为类似传统服装色彩分析和再生设计提供方法参考。
Homogenization of textiles and garments,the mismatch between supply and demand,and slow design decisions have long been a bottleneck in the development of a high-quality industry.With the activation of consumer trends such as“oriental aesthetics”and“new fashion”,the regeneration of traditional,national and localized clothing spirit and cultural connotation has opened up new ideas and new ways for consumption growth.Color research based on image analysis technology is helpful to accurately,conveniently,and objectively characterize garment composition forms and color usage patterns and build a bridge between subjective perception and quantitative analysis,thus helping the development and application of intelligent color design for fashion products.In order to clearly explain the color distribution and association rules of She traditional costumes,image analysis techniques were utilized to parse the imagery coloration relationship.Taking the She diaspora in Zhejiang,Jiangxi and Fujian provinces as an example,the coloration of 150 representative costumes images obtained from the field survey were analyzed.Firstly,the selected samples were subjected to image pre-processing operations.Secondly,in the construction stage of the base dataset,if conventional K-means clustering was used,the number of color clusters of each sample was forced to be uniform,which would easily lead to color lifting bias.Therefore,an improved dichotomy K-means adaptive clustering algorithm was used here to adaptively extract the color of each garment.Under HSV color space,the main colors of the sequence samples were extracted.On this basis,the K-means algorithm was used for secondary clustering when regional differences were compared horizontally,and the number of common color categories of She was determined according to relevant literature studies to unify the number of cluster centers and obtain the clothing imagery colors of each region.The improved vector set-based Apriori algorithm was used to resolve the multivariate color matching relationships among the imagery colors of She clothing,and to visually characterize the color patterns and correlations of different regional settings at the same time.Experimental results show that the quantified colors of She clothing in the three regions match the colors used in She clothing recorded in current literature,and the color palette as a whole presents black,red and blue.In the binary color matching relationship,there are some differences in the color matching color groups of She clothing in each region.In Zhejiang province,there are different shades of similar colors interwoven with each other,showing a rich sense of hierarchy;in Jiangxi province,the colors are deep and simple,with matching frequency of black and gray being greater than 50%,while in Fujian province,there are a small amount of red,yellow and other colors embellishing with each other.In the ternary color scheme relationship,the She clothing pairing is richer in Jiangxi province,simpler in Zhejiang province,and as a whole shows black,green,dark yellow and light yellow pairing relationships with each other in Fujian province.The average time cost of color matching rules parsing with the improved algorithm is 0.032 seconds,which can quickly parse the color correlation rules of She costumes coloration,and provides a referenced method of color analysis and regeneration design for other similar traditional costumes.This study analyzes the color relationships of She clothing in Zhejiang,Jiangxi,and Fujian,and concretely represents the color usage patterns and color matching logic of clothing,which helps to realize the digital conservation of She clothing coloration.In addition,the objective and visualized way of characterizing the color mechanism of clothing provides a basis for color assignment for the future application of color activation and regeneration design of She clothing and further provides a methodological reference for the systematic study of similar traditional clothing colors.
作者
曹竟文
贾静
徐平华
林瑞冰
孙晓婉
CAO Jingwen;JIA Jing;XU Pinghua;LIN Ruibing;SUN Xiaowan(School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Zhejiang Provincial Research Center of Fashion Engineering Technology,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;MOC Key Laboratoryof Silk Culture Heritage and Product Design Digital Technology,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2023年第4期100-106,共7页
Journal of Silk
基金
国家自然科学基金青年基金项目(61702460)
国家社会科学基金重点项目(19AMZ009)
浙江省高校重大人文社会科学攻关计划项目(2023QN092)
浙江理工大学科研业务费专项资金资助项目(22076215-Y,2021Q057)
服装设计国家级虚拟仿真实验教学中心项目(zx20212004)
浙江省服装工程技术研究中心开放基金项目(2021FZKF05)
浙江省教育厅科研基金项目(Y202250618)
浙江理工大学教育教学改革研究重点项目(jgzd202202)
浙江理工大学优秀研究生学位论文培育基金项目(LW-YP2021053)。
关键词
设色关系
关联规则
自适应聚类
色彩解析
色彩谱系
可视化
coloration relationship
association rules
adaptive clustering
color parsing
color spectrum
visualization
作者简介
曹竟文(1998),女,硕士研究生,研究方向为服饰色彩智慧设计;通信作者:徐平华,副教授,shutexph@163.com。
