摘要
为了夯实近代童装文物复原研究的理论基础,以河北永清服装博物馆内一件大红色提花绸儿童夹袄为研究对象,对文物的纤维色彩、形制结构和面料组织结构进行深入研究。采用显微观察、红外光谱、紫外可见光谱、薄层色谱等方法对文物的纤维与染料进行检测鉴别,同时用平面接触式测量法获取文物数据,密度镜测量法分析面料组织,并对文物结构图和组织图进行复原。结果表明:夹袄整体采用丝纤维制成,多为富贵儿童穿着;红色衣身为偶氮类染料染色,缘饰为靛系染料染色,说明近代已使用合成染料,且色泽艳丽;服装结构为盘扣缘饰(满族特色)和交领绑带(汉族特色)并用,为满汉融合背景下的特殊形制。研究成果对近代童装数据库进行了有益补充,有利于其理论研究的完善,为今后近代童装的复原工作提供了切实可行的数据支持及理论支撑。
In order to solidify the theoretical basis for the restoration study of modern children′s clothing relics,a bright red jacquard silk children′s jacket in Hebei Yongqing Costume Museum was taken as the research object,and the fiber color,shape structure and fabric tissue structure of the relics were studied in depth.Microscopic observation,infrared spectroscopy,ultraviolet-visible spectroscopy and thin-layer chromatography were used to detect and identify the fiber and dye of the cultural relic,while the data of the cultural relic were obtained by planar contact measurement,the fabric tissue was analyzed by density microscopy measurement,and the structure and tissue diagrams of the cultural relic were restored.The results show that the jacket is made of silk fiber,and is mostly worn by rich children;The red body is dyed with azo dyes,and the trim is dyed with indigo dyes,indicating that synthetic dyes have been used in modern times,and the color is brilliant;The structure of the garment is a combination of coiled button trim(Manchu characteristics)and cross collar ties(Han characteristics),a special form in the context of Manchu-Han fusion.The research results are beneficial to the supplement of the modern children′s wear database and the improvement of its theoretical research,which can provide practical data and theoretical support for the restoration of modern children′s wear in the future.
作者
王祎
侯东昱
赵波
WANG Yi;HOU Dongyu;ZHAO Bo(School of Textile and Garments,Hebei University of Science and Technology,Shijiazhuang,Hebei 050018,China;Hebei Textile and Garment Engineering Technology Research Center,Shijiazhuang,Hebei 050018,China;Hebei Yongqing Garment Museum,Bazhou,Hebei 065799,China)
出处
《河北工业科技》
CAS
2023年第2期117-123,共7页
Hebei Journal of Industrial Science and Technology
关键词
服装技术其他学科
近代童装
染料鉴别
形制结构
纤维分析
面料
other disciplines in apparel technology
modern children′s clothing
dye identification
shape structure
fiber analysis
fabric
作者简介
第一作者:王祎(1998-),女,河北保定人,硕士研究生,主要从事服装结构设计方面的研究;通信作者:侯东昱,教授。E-mail:1246789231@qq.com。
