摘要
民国时期处于中西、古今交融的特殊时期,此时期女性在众多政治事件影响下思想发生变化,进而引起对身体美的反思,波及服装变革,旗袍作为此时期的典型代表之一也存在巨大变迁。本文针对旗袍整体及局部廓形的设计变迁,运用文献研究法与传世实物资料展开关于民国旗袍廓形变革的研究。从女性身体解放角度深入探究身体解放影响下民国旗袍廓形的设计变迁,从而揭示民国女性在时代的推移及历史事件的影响下政治思想和旗袍审美的发展变革。研究发现,民国旗袍面貌因革命运动而变迁,旗袍整体及局部廓形的变革都与民国时期政治环境、女性意识、审美息息相关。
The Republic of China was in a special period of the integration of the East and the West,and of the ancient and the modern.During this period,Chinese women’s thinking changed under the influence of many domestic political events,which led to the reflection on body beauty and the transformation of garments.As one of the representatives garment in this period,the cheongsam also experienced great changes.Aiming at the design changes of the overall and local silhouette of the cheongsam,we use the method of literature research and handed down materials to carry out research on the reform of the silhouette of the cheongsam in the Republic of China.From the perspective of women’s body liberation,we deeply explore the design changes of cheongsam silhouette of the Republic of China under the influence of body liberation,so as to reveal the developmental and transformation of women’s political thoughts and cheongsam aesthetics under the influence of the passage of time and historical events in the Republic of China.Three important conclusions are obtained.Firstly,the change of cheongsam silhouette in the Republic of China was mainly influenced by women’s consciousness,and the turning point of women’s consciousness was after the“May Fourth Movement”,“Natural Breast Movement”and“Women’s Liberation Movement”.The awakening of women’s body consciousness was reflected in the evolution of the cheongsam pattern,which was accompanied by the development and popularity of women’s undergarments after the“Natural Breast Movement”.Secondly,the awakening of women’s consciousness can also be reflected in the cycle of the length of the cheongsam,the change of the height of cheongsam skirt slits and the application of sleeve slits.The study found that the height of the slit changed with the hemline of the cheongsam after the slit appeared in the 1920s.Thirdly,the local changes in the collar and sleeves of the cheongsam were closely related to the body politics of the Republic of China,which was mainly reflected by how much skin was exposed on women’s bodies and whether their figures were visible or not.Thus,it can be seen that the political environment of the Republic of China caused the awakening of women’s consciousness,which influenced women’s aesthetics.And the appearance of the cheongsam of the Republic of China changed due to the revolutionary movement,and the length,silhouette,collar,sleeve,and slit of the cheongsam also changed.To sum up,the transformation of the overall and local silhouette of the cheongsam was closely related to the political environment,women’s consciousness and aesthetics in the Republic of China.The article examines the cheongsam of the Republic of China from the perspective of women’s body liberation,and the research should not be limited to the style and shape,and we should systematically explore the relationship between the shading and exposure of the cheongsam,so as to analyze the different cultural meanings given to women’s bodies at different stages of the Republic of China and the transformation of the cheongsam silhouette under its effect.This article not only analyzes the specific body politics and cultural meanings behind the transformation of the cheongsam silhouette,but also explores the influence of women’s body liberation on the transformation of the garment form from the perspective of body politics.It is hoped to provide reference for the study of cheongsam culture and encourage modern women to achieve independence,freedom,equality and self-worth.
作者
吴聪
刘亚茹
陶晓晗
严同彤
WU Cong;LIU Yaru;TAO Xiaohan;YAN Tongtong(College of Fashion Technology,Zhongyuan University of Technology,Zhengzhou 450000,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2023年第1期106-113,共8页
Journal of Silk
基金
河南省高等学校哲学社会科学基础研究重大项目(2022-JCZD-34)
河南省高等教育教学改革研究与实践项目(2021SJGLX145Y)。
关键词
身体解放
民国旗袍
廓形
设计变迁
女性意识
审美
body liberation
cheongsams of the Republic of China
silhouette
design changes
female consciousness
aesthetics
作者简介
吴聪(1978),女,副教授,主要从事纺织与服饰文化、设计理论、设计文化的研究。
