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解构主义视角下京剧脸谱元素在服装设计中的创新应用 被引量:5

Innovative Application of Peking Opera Facial Mask Elements in Costume Design from Perspective of Deconstruction
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摘要 京剧脸谱是京剧表演过程中使用的一种化妆手法,目的在于舞台表演时更好地塑造人物形象.脸谱艺术凭借其丰富的色彩和造型变化以及深厚的文化内涵受到大众的认可,并逐渐成为中国文化的象征.首先从结构、图案、色彩和材料分析解构主义,以夸张、错位、融合的解构主义手法,与当代审美理念相融合,通过《说戏解谱》系列服装设计尝试对服装款式结构、图案、色彩、面料进行创新设计.在继承京剧艺术传统美学的同时,结合当代流行趋势,为传统京剧元素的开发与设计提供实践经验与借鉴. Peking Opera facial makeup is a makeup technique used in Peking Opera performance,whose aim is to better shape the character image during the stage performance.Mask art is recognized by the public by virtue of its rich color and shape changes as well as profound cultural connotations,hence a gradual symbol of Chinese culture.The paper first analyzes the deconstruction from the structure,pattern,color and material,and integrates it with the aesthetic concept by means of exaggeration,dislocation and fusion.It tries to carry out an innovative design on the clothing style structure,pattern,color and fabric through the costume design of The Drama Interpretation of Music series.While inheriting the traditional aesthetics of Peking Opera art,and combined with the contemporary popular trend,it provides some practical experience and reference for the development and design of traditional Peking Opera elements.
作者 王晨露 赵林 WANG Chenlu;ZHAO Lin(School of Textile and Apparel Design,Shaoxing University,Shaoxing,Zhejiang 312000;Key Laboratory of Clean Dyeing and Finishing Technology of Zhejiang Province,Shaoxing,Zhejiang 312000;Zhejiang Textile Engineering Society,Hangzhou,Zhejiang 310000)
出处 《绍兴文理学院学报》 2022年第8期113-120,共8页 Journal of Shaoxing University
基金 绍兴文理学院人文社科类重点课题“非遗语境下越剧文化与越剧服饰文化研究”(2020SK007).
关键词 京剧脸谱 解构主义 传承与创新 服装设计 Peking Opera mask deconstruction inheritance and innovation clothing design
作者简介 王晨露(1988—),女,浙江绍兴人,博士,绍兴文理学院纺织服装学院讲师,研究方向:传统服饰与服装设计研究.E-mail:luluwcl711@163.com;通信作者:赵林(1985—),男,山东淄博人,博士,浙江省纺织工程学会高级工程师,研究方向:服装史研究.E-mail:150432768@qq.com。
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