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织物折皱回复性客观评价方法与指标分析

Objective Evaluation Method and Index Analysis of Fabric Wrinkle Recovery
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摘要 对比分析织物折皱回复性的折叠法(水平法和垂直法)和PhabrOmeter织物风格仪指环法测试效果。选取12种精梳棉织物,分别进行柔软整理、免烫整理、液氨柔软整理、液氨免烫整理、液氨潮交联整理得到60块面料。采用3种测试方法对60块面料的折皱回复性进行测试,对比了折叠法所得的经向、纬向回复角和PhabrOmeter织物风格仪指环法所得的褶皱恢复率,并对3种测试方法所得指标间的相关性进行了分析。结果表明:PhabrOmeter织物风格仪指环法稳定性最高,PhabrOmeter织物风格仪指环法的褶皱恢复率与水平法的折痕回复角相关性显著。认为:PhabrOmeter织物风格仪采用的指环法比折叠法在测量方法上更接近面料使用时的实际受力方式,可以更全方位、更精准地评价织物的折皱回复性。 Fabric wrinkle recovery test effect of folding methods(horizontal method and vertical method)and Ph-ring method of PhabrOmeter fabric style tester were compared and analyzed.12 kinds of combed cotton fabrics were selected.60 pieces of fabrics were obtained through soft finishing,non-ironing finishing,liquid ammonia soft finishing,liquid ammonia non-ironing finishing and liquid ammonia tide cross-linking finishing respectively.Three test methods were adopted to test the wrinkle recovery of 60 pieces of fabrics.The warp and weft recovery angles obtained from folding methods were compared with the wrinkle recovery coefficients obtained from Ph-ring method of PhabrOmeter fabric style tester.The correlation of obtained indexes from the three methods was analyzed.The test results showed that the stability of Ph-ring method for PhabrOmeter fabric style tester was the highest.The correlation between wrinkle recovery coefficient tested by Ph-ring method of PhabrOmeter fabric style tester and wrinkle recovery angle tested by horizontal method was significant.It is considered that the test method of Ph-ring method for PhabrOmeter fabric style tester is closer to fabric practical loading mode during the usage compared with folding method.It can evaluate fabric wrinkle recovery more comprehensively and more accurately.
作者 杨红英 曾玲玲 张家耀 周金利 杜立新 YANG Hongying;ZENG Lingling;ZHANG Jiayao;ZHOU Jinli;DU Lixin(Zhongyuan University of Technology,Zhengzhou,450007,China;Luthai Textile Co.,Ltd.,Zibo,255100,China)
出处 《棉纺织技术》 CAS 北大核心 2022年第5期28-31,共4页 Cotton Textile Technology
基金 中原工学院交叉学科团队支持计划项目资助(中工研[2018]13号)。
关键词 织物 折皱回复性 折痕回复角 褶皱恢复率 PhabrOmeter织物风格仪 fabric wrinkle recovery crease recovery angle wrinkle recovery coefficient PhabrOmeter fabric style tester
作者简介 杨红英(1970-),女,教授,webyhy@163.com。
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