摘要
立足出土实物,采用文献分析法考析楚墓遣策记载麻、绢织物的词源,运用对比分析法归纳楚墓平纹麻、绢织物组织规格并进行横向比较,从而考察其类别和功能差异。研究表明,麻织物可以充当赋税物、服饰材料、货币,纱缕密度提升反映了东周时期麻纺织技术的进步;厘清了大麻与苎麻的种植区域南北分异现象与丧葬文化;绢织物功能包括用于绣地,充当书写、绘画工具和装饰材料;楚人根据织物功能选用不同规格的绢,并已掌握砑纱、砑光工艺;高经密织物是东周楚国“多重服饰”风尚的物质基础。
Based on the unearthed objects,this paper uses the method of literature analysis to record the etymology of hemp and silk fabrics in Chu tomb,sums up the tissue specifications of plain hemp and silk fabrics in Chu tomb by contrastive analysis,and makes a point-by-point comparison,and examineing their categories and functional differences in detail.It is found that hemp fabric often acts as tax goods,clothing materials and currency,and the increase of yarn density reflects the weaving progress of flax textile in the Eastern Zhou Dynasty.This paper clarifies the north-south differentiation of hemp and Ramie planting areas,and then finds different burial customs.Silk fabrics were used as embroidery ground,writing,painting tool and decorative material.According to the function of the fabric,the Chu folk chose different specifications of silk,and mastered the calendaring-finishing process.The high warp density fabric is the material basis of the fashion of"multiple clothing"in the state of Chu in the Eastern Zhou Dynasty.
作者
夏添
王鸿博
崔荣荣
XIA Tian;WANG Hongbo;CUI Rongrong(College of Textile and Fashion,Hunan Institute of Engineering,Xiangtan 411104,China;School of Textile Science and Engineering,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;School of Design,JiangnanUniversity,Wuxi 214122,China)
出处
《服装学报》
CAS
2020年第4期334-344,共11页
Journal of Clothing Research
基金
高校哲学社会科学研究重大项目(2019SJZ0A130)
教育部人文社科研究项目(Z2019103009907)。
关键词
楚墓
麻织物
绢织物
工艺特征
楚文化
Chu tombs
ramie fabric
silk fabrics
process features
Chu culture
作者简介
夏添(1986-),男,博士研究生;通信作者:王鸿博(1963-),男,教授,博士生导师。主要研究方向为功能纺织材料与产品。Email:wxwanghb@163.com。
