摘要
文章以苏东水乡地区为研究范围,以江南大学民间服饰传习馆馆藏的作裙为实物基础,通过走访当地服饰工艺传人,对其所讲述和示范的作裙裁剪、缝制工艺进行图文记录、实验室复原。分析了作裙拼接的原因,"边叠边缝"的褶裥处理方式和"褶裥绣缝"的特殊工艺。在此基础上,一方面,从实用、审美、女红技艺等角度总结了作裙工艺的"稻作文化"内涵;另一方面,通过对比中原裙装的结构形制与制作工艺,突出其技艺的"独特性""地域性"非遗文化特质;通过对比胜浦地区不同服饰工艺传人的制作技法与造物理念,体现其技艺的"稳定性""活态性"非遗文化特质。
The authors took of Sudong region of rivers and lakes as the range of research,and Zuoqun collected in the folk costume museum of Jiangnan University as the object to the reasons of Zuoqun stitching,the pleats technology of"folding it while seaming it",and the special process of"fold embroidery stitch"through visiting the local clothing craft inheritors,recording both images and texts of the cutting and sewing techniques narrated and demonstrated by the inheritors,and restoring the material object.On the one hand,from the perspectives of practicability,aesthetics,needlework technology,the"rice culture"connotation of Zuoqun technology was summarized.On the other hand,through comparing the structure,shape and making skills of skirts in Central Plains,the intangible cultural heritage characteristics of"uniqueness"and"regionalism"were highlighted.The comparison of production techniques and creation ideas of the local clothing technology inheritors in Shengpu reflected the intangible cultural heritage characteristics of"stability"and"active state".
作者
陈研
张旭
CHEN Yan;ZHANG Xu(Applied Technology College,Soochow University,Suzhou 215325,China;Suzhou Top Institute of Information Technology,Suzhou 215316,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2020年第8期122-127,共6页
Journal of Silk
关键词
苏东
作裙
妇女
裁剪
缝制
工艺
Sudong
Zuoqun
women
cutting
sewing
craft
作者简介
陈研(1987-),女,讲师,主要从事服装设计与服饰文化的研究。
