摘要
采用红花进行直接染色与同浴媒染染色,对红花红色素在丝、麻纤维织物上的染色性能做对比分析。结果表明:采用直接染色法时,用柠檬酸配制的红花染液呈亮红色,用醋配制的红花染液呈橙红色,但色牢度较差;采用媒染法染色可明显提高织物的色泽与光泽;不同媒染剂的染色效果不同,色相也会产生变化,颜色多样。植物染色织物可用于现代时尚服装与服饰设计,设计者在创作过程中应整合染色性能、传统工艺及设计理念,通过创新设计不断发扬中华优秀文化与传统手工艺。
The dyeing performance of safflower red pigment in silk and hemp fiber was compared and analyzedby direct dyeing and mordant dyeing. The results showed that the safflower dyeing solution prepared with citric acid was bright red,and the safflower dyeing solution prepared with vinegar was orange- red. However the color fastness of the fabric was poor when it was dyed by direct dyeing method. Using mordant dyeing method can significantly improve the fabric color and luster. Various mordants resulted in different dyeing effects with all kinds colors,and the hue changed. Plant dyed fabrics can be used in modern fashion apparel and apparel design. Designers should integrate dyeing performance, traditional craftsmanship and design concepts in the creative process,and continue to promote Chinese excellent culture and traditional crafts through innovative design.
作者
邹岚
张静
彭梅
李浚斌
ZOU Lan;ZHANG Jing;PENG Mei;LI Junbin(College of Arts,South China Agricultural University,Guangzhou 510642,China)
出处
《染整技术》
CAS
2019年第3期24-28,40,共6页
Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal
关键词
红花
植物染色
媒染
服饰设计
safflower
plant dyeing
mordant dyeing
apparel design
作者简介
邹岚(1984-),女,江西赣州人,实验师,硕士,主要从事传统印染工艺、服装与服饰设计;通信作者:彭梅(1970-),女,四川成都人,副教授,硕士,研究方向为传统染色工艺及时尚设计.
