摘要
折皱织物具有独特的视觉美感和物理机械性能,针对市场上织物折皱效果单一的问题,文章提出了采用几何纹样设计配合纬二重组织,直接织造成型实现半立体构成折皱效果提花织物的方法,以及通过计算织物理论与实际起皱高度的差值ΔH、观察非折皱区平整度进行织物成型性评价的方法。研究结果表明,随着织物纬密的增大,差值ΔH先减小后增大;折皱区宽度的变化会引起非折皱区布面不平整;氨纶芯丝规格过大会产生相应的非弹性纱浮线,影响织物平整度。氨纶芯丝规格为22.2 dtex、纬密为900根/10cm且折皱区宽度为2 mm时,ΔH值最小仅为3.8 mm,非折皱区无浮线且十分平整,织物成型效果较好。
The wrinkle fabric has unique visual beauty, physical and mechanical properties. In view of the single wrinkle effect on the market, the paper proposed a method of directly weaving semi-stereoscopic wrinkle effect jacquard fabric with geometric pattern design and weft double structure. Besides, the method of evaluating the fabric formability by calculating the difference Δ H between theoretical and the actual wrinkle height of the fabric and observing the flatness of the non-wrinkle area. The research indicated that, as the weft density of the fabric increased, the difference Δ H first decreased and then increased;the width change of the wrinkle area would cause the non-wrinkle area to be uneven;too large size of spandex core wire would produce the corresponding non-elastic yarn floating line, which affects the fabric flatness. When the spandex core wire size was 22.2 dtex, the weft density was 900 pieces/10 cm, and the wrinkle area width was 2 mm, the Δ H value was the minimum, only 3.8 mm. The non-wrinkle area had no floating line and was very flat, and the fabric forming effect was good.
作者
侍康妮
吕智宁
张鲁燕
孙艺博
田伟
祝成炎
SHI Kangni;L Zhining;ZHANG Luyan;SUN Yibo;TIAN Wei;ZHU Chengyan(College of Materials and Textiles,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China;Key Laboratory of Advanced Textile Materials and Manufacturing Technology, Ministry of Education,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2019年第3期63-69,共7页
Journal of Silk
基金
浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程一流学科研究生创新基金项目(11110131201709)
关键词
半立体构成
折皱效果
折皱区宽度
纬二重组织
成型性
非折皱区
semi-stereoscopic
wrinkle effect
wrinkle area width
weft double tissue
formability
non-wrinkle area
作者简介
侍康妮(1992 ),女,硕士研究生,研究方向为现代纺织技术、新产品研究与开发;通信作者:祝成炎,教授,cyzhu@zstu.edu.cn。
