摘要
玫瑰纯露在护肤领域应用广,一般常用作溶剂,使用量大、浓度高。为进行高原地区玫瑰纯露与平原地区玫瑰纯露在相应体外功效上的对比,使用分别产自西藏墨脱与安徽黄山的玫瑰纯露在较高质量浓度下进行功效对比研究。研究采用人永生化表皮角化细胞(Ha Ca T细胞),人成纤维细胞(HSF细胞),人黑色素瘤细胞(A375细胞)作为体外模型,通过MTT法、L-DOPA氧化法、ELISA、DPPH自由基清除实验进行相应对比检测。实验发现在较高质量浓度范围内(20,40,60,80,100 g/L)高原玫瑰纯露不影响角质细胞与成纤维细胞的生长,并且高原玫瑰纯露比平原玫瑰纯露更显著的抑制黑色素细胞内酪氨酸酶活性及酪氨酸酶相关蛋白2(TRP-2)表达,并可以显著促进角质细胞丝聚蛋白(FLG)表达,而平原玫瑰纯露在高质量浓度条件下抑制了FLG蛋白的表达,两组纯露清除自由基能力均较弱。高原玫瑰纯露相较于平原玫瑰纯露高质量浓度下在相应体外功效上具有更好的安全性和抑制黑色素生物合成和促进FLG蛋白表达的作用,两组玫瑰纯露均不具备较好的抗衰老及清除自由基的能力。
Rose hydrolat is widely used in cosmetics,commonly used as a solvent in many products with high concentration and large volume. In order to detect the different efficacies at high mass concentration between plateau rose hydrolat from high altitude area and plain rose hydrolat from low altitude area in vitro,respectively from Motuo in Tibet and Huangshan in Anhui. In the research they were studied in vitro through MTT,oxidation by L-DOPA,DPPH free radicals scavenging activity and cell-based ELISA,using Ha Ca T cells,HSF cells and A375 cells as research objects. The results showed that at the high mass concentration range（ 20,40,60,80,100 g/L）,plateau rose hydrolat had no influences on Ha Ca T cells and HSF cells proliferation,but plain rose hydrolat inhibited Ha Ca T cells and HSF cells proliferation at high mass concentrations. Most importantly,plateau rose hydrolat significantly decreased the activity of tyrosinase（ TYP） in A375 cells,and also tyrosine-related protein 2（ TRP-2） expression on A375 cells,while plain rose hydrolat had lower capacity of decreasing the activity of TYP in A375 cells and TRP-2 protein expression in vitro. However,plateau rose hydrolat significantly promoted filaggrin（ FLG） protein expression on Ha Ca T cells,while plain rose hydrolat inhibited FLG protein expression on Ha Ca T cells at high mass concentrations. At the same time,plateau rose hydrolat and plain rose hydrolat all had a low capacity of radical-scavenging at this mass concentration range. In conclusion,at high mass concentrations plateau rose hydrolat from high altitude area had a better safety in vitro,better inhibition effects of melanin biosynthesis in melanocyte and better promotion of FLG protein expression on keratinocyte than plain rose hydrolat from low altitude area. However the two hydrolats from high and low altitude areas all had a low capacity of radical-scavenging,and had no capacity of promoting fibroblast proliferation.
作者
方婷欢
马萍
霍刚
周莹
沈黎玥
FANG Ting-huan;MA Ping;HUO Gang;ZHOU Yin;SHEN Li-yue(OSM BIOLOGY CO.LTD.,Deqing 313200,China)
出处
《药物生物技术》
CAS
2018年第3期222-225,共4页
Pharmaceutical Biotechnology
作者简介
方婷欢（1990-），女，浙江德清人，硕士研究生，研究方向：功效护肤品，电话：0572—8086596；E-mail：fangth@osm．com．cn。;通讯作者：霍刚，技术总监，研究方向：功效护肤品电话：0572—8086595；E—mail：huogang@osm．com．com。
