摘要
对比例法、原型法、基型法、立裁法、剥样的服装制版方法进行了对比,研究发现其中比例法和原型法在服装整体吻合度、胸部、体侧、背部的合体性方面还存在不足。为了提高服装制版的合体性,结合原型法基于单个人体主要部位数据提出了"一级原型—二级原型—三级原型—样衣制作—生产成衣"新原型制版方法。通过样衣试验,专家对各样衣静态着装合体效果进行打分,试穿者对样衣的动态穿着舒适性进行打分并对新原型制版进行验证,同时利用模糊多层次分析法对试验结果进行了分析,得出新原型制版方法能有效提高服装的合体性。
Proportional method, prototype method, base type method, legislation method, peeling-like garment plate makingmethod were compared, the study found that the proportional method and prototype method were insufficient in the garment overallanastomosis and fitness of chest, body and back. In order to improve the fitness of garment plate making, combining with the proto-type method based on the data of main parts of individual human body, new prototype method of the ＂primary prototype--secondaryprototype--tertiary prototype--sample making--apparel manufacture＂ were proposed. Through the method of clothing test, expertsscored for the static fit effect of all kinds of clothes, subjects scored for the dynamic wearing comfort of the samples clothing, and val-idated the new prototype plate making. At the same time, the fuzzy multi level analysis method was used to analyze the test results.New prototype plate making method could effectively improve the overall fitness of the garment.
出处
《纺织科技进展》
CAS
2017年第11期33-37,共5页
Progress in Textile Science & Technology
基金
西安工程大学校企产学研合作项目--好运来研发基金(2014KJ-048(HYL201609))
关键词
服装制版
原型法
新原型
合体性评价
garment plate making
prototype method
new prototype
fitness evaluation
作者简介
关小芳（1994-），女，硕士，研究方向为智能可穿戴服装关键技术研究，E-mail：1134082749@qqo.com;邓咏梅（1969-），女。教授，研究方向：智能可穿戴服装的研究，E-mail：dengymxpu@sin.com。
