摘要
以服装结构为出发点,从技术层面对西方传统服装进行复原研究。文章选取新古典主义时期的斯潘塞女装为研究对象,对美国大都会博物馆、英国维多利亚与阿尔伯特博物馆内收藏的27件斯潘塞藏品进行了观察,结合相关文献、图像、实物等历史资料,以服装实物图为主要研究参考依据,统计归纳了斯潘塞的基本形制,分析总结出复原对象的款式分片结构、服装细部尺寸等。并参考同时期的相似服装的平面结构图进行了复原制作,总结出斯潘塞的结构特点,对中国在西方服装研究体系的完善具有积极意义。
This paper is intended to study technical restoration of western traditional dress from the perspective of garment structure. For this purpose,Spencer women's dress in the Neoclassical Period was focused on,27 Spencer works collected in the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Victoria & Albert Museum were observed,related historical materials such as literatures,images and objects were studied,and pictures of real products of garment were referred to. On this basis,the basic Spencer shape and structure were concluded,and the fragmentation structure and part-dimensions of the restored objects were analyzed. Restoration was carried out by referring to the plane structure diagram of similar garments in the same period,and the features of Spencer structure were summarized,which is of positive significance to the improvement of the Western traditional costume research system in China.
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2017年第9期36-42,共7页
Journal of Silk
基金
东华大学人文社会科学预研究项目(107-10-0108055)
关键词
复原研究
服装结构
斯潘塞
新古典主义时期
西方传统服装
research on restoration
garment construction
Spencer
Neoclassical Period
western traditional costume
作者简介
王朝晖（1967）,女,教授,硕士生导师,主要从事服装结构造型设计.
