摘要
为建立藏族服饰结构图谱,完善整个中华民族服饰结构谱系,利用类型学、比较学的研究方法,通过对博物馆馆藏藏族服饰的结构进行实物研究,得到了藏袍腋下插角结构的重大发现,这一特殊结构在其他少数民族中尚未被发现。对比发现,类似的结构出现在两千多年前的战国中晚期,江陵马山一号楚墓出土衣袍的小腰结构与藏袍腋下插角结构之间有着异曲同工之妙。对藏袍腋下插角结构和先秦楚墓衣袍小腰结构进行分析,发现二者存在诸多相似之处,都是基于十字型平面结构下的功能性探索和实践。所不同的是,藏袍腋下插角都不是单独衣片,而是与侧片连为一体,体现了敬畏自然之下的节俭动机。
In order to establish the structure map of Tibetan costume and optimize the whole structure system of Chinese national costumes.Using the research methods of typology and comparison,the outspread inserted pieces of an important discovery have been found in study on the Tibetan costume structure from the Museum by comparison,which is found in other ethnic groups.Similar structure appeared in the later stage of the Warring States period of two thousands years ago.Structure of gusset in robe of Chu Tomb No.1 at Mashan in Jiangling is similar to the outspread inserted pieces.It is found that many similarities exist between the two things.Both of them are based on the functional exploration and practice under the cross flat structure.The difference is that the inserted pieces are integrally connected with the side piece instead of separate pieces,which embodies the nature respect under the motivation of thrift.It is of index significance in establishing the cross flat structure system of unified multi-culture Chinese traditional costumes.
出处
《纺织学报》
EI
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2017年第8期127-131,共5页
Journal of Textile Research
基金
北京市学科建设项目(XKJY02150201)
关键词
藏袍
插角结构
深隐式插角
先秦袍服小腰
Tibetan robe
qutspread structure
outspread inserted piece
gusset in pre-Qin robes
作者简介
陈果（1987-），女，博士生。主要研究方向为中国传统服饰文化的抢救与传承。刘瑞璞，通信作者，E-mailviolin2009@foxmail．com。
