摘要
龙袍作为一种吉服出现在清代,穿用它的人物主要为帝、后妃及皇太子等身份较高的人。龙袍的形制在入关前就已固定下来,但装饰纹样在乾隆朝以前存在多种形式,根据布局和装饰的手法,可以归纳为两大类共七种样式,这些样式分别流行于不同的时期。乾隆朝《大清会典》和《皇朝礼器图式》颁布以后,龙袍作为吉服从形式到使用都有明确的规定,男龙袍只保留了一种形式,女龙袍有两种形式三个式样。无论制度体系如何发展变化,清代龙袍纹样的设计思路和装饰方法都基本相同,至少要经过三重纹样的设计,即铺设底纹,主体龙纹布局,顶层的其他装饰纹样。
As one of the Jifu in Qing dynasty, the dragon robe was used by the emperor and his wives, as well as by the crown prince. The style and the administration of dragon robe had been settled before the Manchu nationality became the governors in China, while the decoration and patterns classified into three categories total seven kinds were variation before the Qianlong age. Some styles were popular used in different period according to the materials. In the middle Qianlong age, as an important kind of Jifu, the styles and usage of dragon robes were defined strictly in "Da Qing Hui Dian" and "Huang Chao Li Qi Tu Shi", the application of patterns of male dragon robe was only one kind and the females' were two categories, total three kinds. No matter what the revolutions of the dragon robe rules, the method of design and the way of decoration were always similar, that is about at least three steps: the background patterns, the main pattern dragons and the other decorations on the top.
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
北大核心
2009年第7期48-51,共4页
Journal of Silk
基金
温州大学社会科学项目(2007S009)
关键词
清代龙袍
纹样
清地
满地
Qing dragon robe
Pattern
Clear background
Full pattern background
作者简介
王业宏(1973-),女,讲师,博士研究生,主要从事服饰史研究。