摘要
随着清代宫廷与西方交流的日渐常态化,传教士带来的大量西洋技艺与产品被保留在宫廷之中。故宫博物院以及其他机构收藏的宫廷服饰,有些用与西方蕾丝同源的西式花边装饰,目前对这类花边的描述和分析尚不充分。本文以西式花边装饰的宫廷服饰为实物参照,依据历史文献资料和西方蕾丝技法进行分析后发现,较早使用的"鬼子栏杆"为以金属线为主要材质的条状棒槌蕾丝(Bobbin Lace);光绪时期大量使用的一类网地花边,为模仿当时著名的尚蒂伊蕾丝(Chantilly Lace)的网地机织蕾丝;另一类大量使用的机器花绦为大机器生产的对传统蕾丝花边进行模仿的装饰花边,其技术源自西方,后由中国本土生产。
With the increasingly normal exchanges between the palace and the West in the Qing Dynasty,a large number of western skills and products brought by the missionaries were kept in the palace.In The Palace Museum and other institutions,a large number of court costumes decorations appeared in the same style as western lace.The description and analysis of this type of lace is not sufficient.This article uses a large number of western-style lace-decorated court costumes as a physical reference.Based on historical documents and western lace techniques,it is found that the earlier use of gui zi lan gan is a kind of straight bobbin lace,which was mainly made of metal threads.A type of net lace used extensively during the Guangxu period was a machine-made lace imitates the famous Chantilly lace.Another type of machine-made lace that is used extensively is a decorative lace produced by machines that imitates the traditional lace.Its technology originated in the West and was produced locally in China.
作者
苗荟萃
MIAO Huicui(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)
出处
《东华大学学报（社会科学版）》
2021年第3期66-72,共7页
Journal of Donghua University:Social Science
关键词
栏杆
蕾丝
机器花绦
Lan gan
lace
machine-made pattern braid
作者简介
苗荟萃(1990-),女,山东烟台人,博士研究生,研究方向为服饰染织史。
