摘要
在中国饮食史上曾有“南人嗜咸,北人嗜甘”的说法。“北人嗜甘”是建立在北方蜂蜜、饴糖产业发达基础上比较真实的描述,得益于唐宋以前北方优越的政治、经济与文化环境,这种观念在时人认知中留下了深刻烙印。大约在两宋之间,国人的地域口味偏好出现了从南咸北甘到南甜北咸的转变,除了北人南迁带来的影响外,这种转变更应该归结于主要甜源的更替,主产于我国南方的蔗糖取代蜂蜜和饴糖成为古人最重要的甜味来源,才是导致国人嗜甘南北转变的更深层次动因。
As for the history of Chinese food,there has been a saying"Southerners prefer salty food while northerners prefer sweet food".Relatively speaking,the"northerners'preference for sweet food"was a quiet authentic description based on the development of honey and caramel industry in the north,which benefited from the superior political,economic and cultural environment in the north before Tang and Song dynasties,and left a deep mark in the cognition of people during the time.Between the South Song Dynasty and the North Song Dynasty,the regional taste preference of Chinese changed from"Southerners prefer salty food while northerners prefer sweet food"to"Southerners prefer sweet food while northerners prefer salty food".In addition to the influence of the southward migration of the northerners,this change should be attribute to the replacement of the main sweet sources.Sucrose,which was mainly produced in the south of China,replaced honey and caramel and became the most important source of sweetness in the ancient Chinese.That's the deeper motivation leading to the change.
作者
陈姝
CHEN Shu(Institute of Historical Geography,Southwest University,Beibei Chongqing 400715,China)
出处
《乐山师范学院学报》
2020年第2期75-81,共7页
Journal of Leshan Normal University
关键词
北人嗜甘
南甜北咸
饮食口味
地理环境
Northerners'Preference for Sweet Food
Southerners Prefer Sweet Food while Northerners Prefer Salty Food
Food Taste
Geographic Environment
作者简介
陈姝(1995—),女,四川遂宁人。西南大学历史地理研究所硕士研究生,研究方向:历史人文地理。
